WFC310S0EB3 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Just follow included instructions.

Unplug from outlet and top remove back section of range and unplug wiring from switch, remove knob and unscrew two screws and remove old switch. Install new switch reinstall screws and plug switch plugs into new switch (will only go on the correct way). reattach back and plug into outlet. All done and surface element works perfectly.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

REMOVE BACK OF RANGE, REMOVE BURNER KNOB. REMOVE SWITCH CONTROL REMOVE WIRES. REPLACE WIRES ON NEW SWITCH. INSERTED ALL WIRES REPLACE NEW SWITCH RE REPLACE ALL SCREWS. CHECK SWITCH. TURN BRAKER BACK ON. CHECK SWITCH FUNCTION. ALL IS FINE. PUT BACK ON RANGE SCREW IT IN PLACE. MOVE RANGE BACK IN IT POSITION.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Broiler worked, Oven did not.
Remove two Phillips screws, unplug element, reverse for installation.
Did not correct the issue.
After replacing the oven temperature control also, it turned out the control board was the issue all along.

Range surface element control switch was bad. Replaced the switch and every thing works fine. Removed two Philips head screws in front and two Philips head screws in back of the range. Pulled the front panel away from the back of the range with the power off of course. Unplugged the wires and removed the two screws that held the switch in. Replaced the switch and refastened the control panel. Tested the switch and every thing worked fine.

very expensive to buy the part but just tighten the screw intot eh predefined place.

I removed each surface coil burner from its receptacle; removed the old drip bowls and replaced with the new ones; my stove looks good as new.

ordered new broiler pan

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

Pop old one out and new one in

put back together with parts ordered. Parts arrived in 2 days!!!! and saved my large dinner party the following day from being ruined. Thank you so much for your parts inventory and for Jenn Air supplying only the part needed and not the entire door. It was a life saver!

Unplugged stove.
Pulled stove out.
Unscrewed screws and removed cover.
Removed & replaced sensor.
Reinstalled cover & screws.
Plugged in stove and pushed back in.
Only problem was when I pulled stove out, lid opened and disconnected the gas line to a burner.

I had been putting off this repair for months! I finally sat down to explore ordering the parts. It was so easy - I wish I did it a long time ago. When the parts arrived, they were exactly what I needed.