WFC310S0EB2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

i personally did not do the repair..one of my neighbors did it and he said it was super easy..he pulled stove out from wall, unplugged it from socket, removed defective part, shortened clip that knob attaches to, installed new part with no problems whatsoever...plugged stove back in, pushed it back in place...burner now works fine! i was super impressed with the delivery of this part...ordered it on a Monday nite, it was mailed out the next day (Tuesday), and i received it Wednesday around noontime.. :)

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

First, I turned off the power at the switch box. Moved the stove out (That was a problem, because I am 80 years young) Removed the back panel, and moved the wires one at a time to the new switch. Removed the selector, then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in. Installed the new switch installed the dial selector, turned the power back on, and checked the burner. It works as advertised!!!!! Moved the stove back to its original position, and got a hug from my wife. PHEW!!! Now I think I'll take a nap.

take the 2 screws that hold the handle on out...watch the glass front and the side trims because the handle holds them on. Take the glass out then remove the side trims. Replace the side trims holding the glass in place with 2 pieces of masking tape om each side then install the handle with the 2 screws and remove the masking tape.

Take off the back panel of stove and unplugged timer motor and switch on door latch assembly,removed two screws that hold assembly and slide rod off. I put 110 volt plug to timer motor and it did not move, that is how I diagnosed problem. Ordered new assembly (cannot buy just timer motor)put new door latch assembly on and worked fine. Of course unplug stove before you start !

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

replaced them

Element burned out, ordered from Sears. Took over 2 weeks to get, originally sent wrong burner then shipped second one to wrong address. When I installed element I found that switch was also burned out . I ordered it from Parts Select & it was in the stove in 24 hours from the time I ordered it on line. Be assured I know where I will order my parts from now on

Replaced the burner switch.

Remove the plug from outlet then shutoff gas. Remove the 10 screws hold the back panel of the oven. Unclip the connector of the temperature sensor from the main line. Pull the sensor straightout. Reverse the process install the new sensor. Couldn't be any easier. Oven working great. Calling in a reapairman would have cost $200 for parts and labor.

Looked up on-line the error problem and what part I needed to fix it. Part arrived very quickly and everything was going fine until I realized the stove had two sensors. Replaced the top sensor now I am getting an error on the bottom sensor. Maybe I replaced the wrong one. I will replace the bottom sensor with the one I took out and see if that does the trick. Very very satisfied with PartsSelect. Good Price, Quick Shipping, Would do business with them again. They are now in my favorites so I can find them again if I need parts.

Snapped in the new drawer glide. Took less than 5 minutes.

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.