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Watched the video, procedure was simple and as depicted on the video. Started by using a wet shop Vac to the discharge hose and sucked as much dirty wash water out as possible. Removed the pump,and found the motor did not turn freely. Removed the motor (3 screws) and replaced the motor with new part. Reassembled the washer, everything worked as it should. After about 3-4 loads of laundry, the "Not Draining" code / problem returned. Again, sucked out the water with the Shop Vac. Checked the Filter /Cleanout and found it completely packed with MUD. Cleaned that out, and again disassembled the washer. The pump was removed and the remaining muddy gunk was cleaned from the impeller. The 3 drain lines that attached to the pump were inspected for blockage/obstruction and flushed of any muddy residue. Reassembly was quick and easy, and the washer has worked well since. I have no idea how the dirt got into the system with enough dirt to gunk up the system. Recommend keeping more frequent inspections of the cleanout trap.
An initial issue was getting the door to unlock. I tired several things but finally was able to pull the door as if to open it and put something between the door handle and the front of the washer while I ran a washer cycle. There is a way to take the washer top off and reach down inside the unit and pull down on a release, but I did not try that.
The washer has a rubber boot between the washer frame and the wash tub. There is a metal wire ring that secures the outer edge of the boot to the washer frame. Peel back the outer edge of the boot at the bottom to reveal a metal ring that has its ends connected by a small spring. Use a flat tip screw drive to pry this ring off. Peel back the boot from the washer frame.
Next use a Phillips screw drive to remove the two screws that protrude through the wash frame on the right side of the door.
Reach between the washer tub and the frame and the tub and pull the switch through the opening and the washer tub. You will have to wiggle the switch around to remove it. There are three sets of wires attached to the switch by plugs.
The switch is covered with a plastic protective cover. Remove this. You will have to use a screw driver to release various catches to do this.
Remove the three set of wires. There are catches that secure the wire plugs in place. pry them back with a small screw drive.
Attach the new switch to the sets of wires.
Attach the protective cover to the switch. The wires feed through a small slot toward the bottom of the switch.
Slide the switch through the opening where you removed it. and re-attach it using the two screws.
Put the rubber boot in the channel in the washer frame. Replace the metal ring. This was the most challenging part of the repair for me. I had to play around with this to get it into position. You have to work it around the gasket and stretch out the spring.
By the way, The service was great and exceeded by expectations.
Found a repair video of a Samsung washer that looks like mine (9 years old). Removed two screws from the back of the washer, slid the top a few inches toward the front and lifted it off. Disconnected the two double electrical connections, the two rubber tubes from the solenoids, the cold water hose from the back and removed the two screws holding the valve in place. Installed the new valve by reversing those steps, slid the top back into place and secured it with the two screws and viola (as Kelly Bundy would say)! The washer now functions normally. I'm waiting for my next water bill to arrive to see whether the sudden increase in usage decreases to its normal amount. We have three adults and four small children in the household so the washer is constantly in use.
