WDP560HAMW0 Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

saw big hole in first (main) hose - got replacement at local hardware thinking it was the only problem - it wasn't - turned on the water and noticed another leak so ordered hose from parts select - fast delivery - installed 2nd hose but still a leak so ordered grommet from parts select - again prompt delivery - installed it and voila no more leak -
also checked for rat entry points, plugged those and put down bait - bait wasn't being taken under dishwasher even tho rat reappeared so put a snap trap in back - no luck so far - teachable moment: might have been cheaper to just get another dishwasher as parts are expensive and its difficult to tell extent of damage - luckily i only needed 3 parts = $150

Came as a box of loose parts with no directions. New parts looked totally different from OEM parts (better than OEM) on the rack. Luckily I went to the Partselect web site and they had a great short video preforming the task. Was a 15 minute job after the video.. If you get the Upper Rack Adjuster Kit with the wheels watch the short video and it’s a breeze!!

replaced the whole bracket assembly very easy to do.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

Replaced the detergent dispenser module by first unscrewing the front outer cover from the dishwasher and removing it, then by unplugging the old detergent dispenser, then by bending the metal latch clips outward to remove the old detergent dispenser, then by bending the metal latch clips inward before inserting the new detergent dispenser, plugging the new one into the wiring harness then re-securing the front outer cover of the dishwasher door.

This repair could be done in under 15 minutes but my dishwasher is so old that there was a lot of gunk built-up around the screws that hold the front cover on that I wanted to take my time cleaning up real nice.

The detergent dispenser is VITAL for getting dishes clean. Without it working properly, the detergent will be removed from the wash during the pre-wash/soak function and your dishes will not come out clean. I HIGHLY recommend doing this repair if your detergent dispenser is not working, and I had a great experience with www.PartSelect.com

Very easy repair, take out old seal replace with new insuring the seal in pressed in tightly, while installing. corners were a little tricky.

Replaced Arm spray...
Turn it left and it comes off......place new spray in .. turn it right...and it's in...make sure it moves freely.......Arm wasn't turning and water was consistently hitting the front door.....I also replaced the door seal...

The new lower spray arm fit right into place. All set, and I will always check to see if it is sitting properly!

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

watched instructions and proceeded. Parts were self evident after watch ing video. Easy replacement.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

The replacement kit came with no instructions in the box, so I found the instructional video online. This video pointed me in the right direction so I could take it the rest of the way myself.

Here is the link to the instructional video i used
https://www.partselect.com/PS10065979-Whirlpool-W10712395-Upper-Rack-Adjuster-Kit-White-Wheels-Left-and-Right-Sides.htm

Even though I purchased the end cap pieces for the roller stops, I was able to reuse the original pieces so these are to be keep for spare if required.

This was a very cost effective repair instead of replacing the entire rack assembly.

NOTE: The original Wheel bracket was a molded plastic piece, but the replacement is Stainless Steel. This had no impact on the functionality, but did add a small amount of noise during the wash cycle. My belief is this is the water hitting the steel vs. hitting the plastic.