WDF341PAPM2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Very easy to remove the broken one and just clip in the new one.

Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!

I needed to replace the black access panel on my Whirlpool dishwasher (model WDF520PADM7).

By following the instructions in this short video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=995mtdO7rQg) , I was able to complete the replacement in under 10 minutes. You'll need a flat-blade screwdriver. The Retainer Clip - Black can be a little tricky to position into the opening, so have patience.

Keep in mind that the Retainer Clip - Black only contains ONE clip and so you must make sure to order TWO Retainer Clip - Black from PartSelect.

Just click in, you can basically do it with your eyes closed

Pulled up old spray arm and snapped new on in place. Took less than a minute and no tools. Dishwasher is like new again.

Snap new track stop into place. Took a few minutes to figure out top/bottom and inside/outside, but no issues

It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.

laid dishwasher on its side and unscrewed element. returned unit upright & replaced element. reversed process and reinstalled unit under cabinet

lower wash arm cracked by spinning into items hanging out of bottom of basket. part twists and snaps right in. glue did not fix.

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

Watch video and followed instructions. Very easy!

Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.

removed and installed cords with screw driver

Replaced door latch

Very easy. I removed the two screws on the base plate, then the two screws that attach the washer to the cabinet, and pulled the washer out of its slot. I installed the broken side and closely checked the other side and felt it didn't need repairing. I put it back together and the door works very well.

Thanks,
Ted K.