WDF331PAHB0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

Very simple to repair The front track stops just slide into place, easy. When I looked for these parts this place was the least expensive and the quickest delivery I have ever had. Quick, efficient and friendly online staffing. Thank you, Deb

I just snapped the old one off and snapped the new one on..

As stated above the repair did not go well because the gasket was too wide and the door would close. Suggest you talk with Whirlpool about the part they sold you for my model of dishwasher.

New one snapped right into place.

I'm the maintenance supervisor at an apartment complex. While installing a new dishwasher for a tenant, I inadvertently cross-threaded the swivel connector to the fill valve. The valve was ruined and couldn't be repaired. I ordered a new valve (it was an OEM) and installed it. Simple switch out, plus the video from Parts Select showed I had done it right.

based on advice here, concluded the problem was likely that the part "Valve-Inlt" was defective. Our dishwasher intake line is copper and had already developed a partial kink from sometime in the past, so I had to be careful. The final connection to the new part had to happen in place: very close to the floor and underneath, because I didn’t want to stress the copper line. Plus, the shutoff was defective, and it was always leaking while I connected. Awkward. As I was threading on, it started to look like it might be cross-threaded, so I stopped and reversed. Slid the washer back out and disconnected the drain line so I could tip the dishwasher u and inspect. It was going on cross-threaded. Not hard to happen on a metal to a plastic connection. To solve, I carefully made very small bends in the copper inlet line until when it would later be brought up underneath to connect to the inlet valve, it would be as perfectly aligned as possible. This worked. As I tightened, it went a little easier and the leak stopped. A good moment. Tightened a bit more, but didn’t want to overdo it as that can cause other problems. Now the moment of truth: let’s run it. DISHWASHER WORKED AGAIN. Runs fine now and we are glad to have it back. Was satisfying I could do this on my own. The advice and guides here made that possible. Thank you.

Pulled out old gasket, pressed in new starting middle top. No more leak.

I saves the old part to see how it was to be installed. It was very easy. I saved the $50 + dollars for a SERVICE CALL.

Pulled dishwasher out unplug the wire on each side unscrew the nut on each side lift up in the back of element pull it out on metal holder for element and put the new one in really easy thanks so much for the help!!

Had to repurchase the correct one. I was also sent a used part that I am still waiting for a call tag to send back. I was also given an email address for customer service but low and behold it also didn’t work!!!!

Husband is wonderful, tipped dishwasher over on back, disconnected hoses, and drain motor (replaced that a couple years ago), popped out old part, popped in new part. Had me help him keep door open when working from the inside, and flip a plastic holder piece into place on outside. 15 minutes later, I had a dishwasher that worked like new again.

I watched the videos and did the repair , very simple, replaced main motor and dispenser. just have to take your time, turn off water and power and work safely

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

Tipped over washer, removed attachment bolts, installed new pump by clamping water hoses. Be sure to use proper crimping pliers, not the generic slip joint pliers. Replacement pump included required new clamps.