W3S3CVKKNNS (ANSEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

I ordered the lint filter screen and when it arrived it looked exactly like the old one. It should have been nothing more than remove the old one and slide the new one in place.

Unfortunately, the new screen was about 1/2" wider than the old one and would not fit into the guide. After consulting by phone with your parts expert, we confirmed the model number and serial numbers, and eventually concluded that a design change must have been made by the manufacturer. We thought the only solution would be to also purchase the corresponding filter guide. So I ordered the guide. When it arrived, I installed it - a very difficult installation requiring putting my head and one shoulder into the dryer in order to get the screws out. (A long arm with two elbows would be nice.) After I got the old guide out, I discovered that it was exactly like the new one - 1/2" too narrow for the new filter screen. I reinstalled the old guide and returned both parts.

The dryer filter screen still has a hole in it and I am now waiting for my refund. I have no idea how to solve the problem.

The filter screen part number is 24053607, order number 18265310.

The guide part number is 24145665, order number 18348658.

Model number: DLE3170W

Serial number: 603KWMK6T539

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Part showed up in 2 days and repair took 2 min. Very easy. Thank you!!

With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

Followed the instruction on video.was great after three parts now is OK .we have heat.still cheaper than having it service.

Viewed YouTube video form parts select to take dryer apart. Very easy to do if you just follow instructions in the video. Nothing too hard to do. Of note the 4 pack roller assembly is a whole unit, so you’ll have to replace the stem unit the old rollers use and not just replace the roller wheels like in the video. That is a different part number from LG. The front 2 are pretty straight forward to unbolt and replace. The back 2, especially one on the left is tighter clearance even with a wrench. If you’re able to pull whole dryer out and take back off, it’s an easier to get the one on the back left.
Also replaced belt just because i had it open, I replaced thermistor previously after getting a Te5 code about a year ago so that helped in taking it apart.
Would recommended doing it all since you’ll have it open.
Once replaced, everything ran again.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Completely had to dismantle the dryer to get to the igniter.
The screw holding the igniter is a SOB to get at for extraction, and even worse putting back.,

Just unscrewed the original lock and screwed the new one on it was very easy

There’s all sorts of videos on it I watched. It was actually very simple