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TRT17NRBW0 Tappan Refrigerator - Overview
Diagrams for TRT17NRBW0
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$49.94
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
Part #215846602
This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
$35.95
In Stock
Light Bulb
Part #316538904
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside your appliance. Installation is simple—just unscrew the old bulb and replace it with the new one. If the existing bulb is broken, disconnect p...Read moreower and use needle-nose pliers to safely remove the remaining base. Sold individually, this bulb is a commonly replaced part—consider keeping a spare on hand.
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$58.82
In Stock
Run Capacitor
Part #5304464438
This part is attached to the compressor. It helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
$50.69
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
Part #5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
No Longer Available
Crisper Drawer Cover Support
Part #5303288973
This is the replacement crisper drawer cover support for your refrigerator. The crisper shelf rests on the support, which keeps it level. If your drawer cover or shelf will not stay level, or will not stay in place, the support may be damaged. The support is held in place on the refrigerator wall with a drive pin. To remove the damaged su...Read morepport, simply drive the pin all the way in, and use a putty knife to pry the support from the refrigerator wall. At this point, pull the drive pin out and replace the old support with the new one. This is an OEM part and is sold individually.
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$30.95
In Stock
$72.47
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
Part #215366002
This is a white cut-to-fit door shelf retainer bar.
$182.64
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
Part #5300158289
This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
$67.04
In Stock
$36.95
Special Order
Light Socket
Part #218906802
The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light socket. This light socket is made of white plastic with two metal prongs. The light socket is located inside the refrigerator...Read more. Many of our customers have rated this repair as easy. To complete this repair, simply pop the old socket out with a small flat blade screwdriver and disconnect the wires. Then simply reconnect the wires to the new socket, and snap it in place with the locking tab.
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$39.26
In Stock
$29.95
In Stock
Common Symptoms of the TRT17NRBW0
How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.
Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Light not working
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Won’t start
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer too cold
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Doesn’t stop running
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Clicking sound
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Watch our pros, then fix it yourself.
See how others fixed this model. Time, tools, difficulty, and steps that lead to victory!
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Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
340 of 407 people
found this instruction helpful.
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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Noisy fan
153 of 180 people
found this instruction helpful.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including th ... Read more e brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
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