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TRT17NRBW0
TRT17NRBW0 Tappan Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the TRT17NRBW0
[Viewing 4 of 4]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Defrost Timer - 60Hz 120V
PartSelect #: PS423801
Manufacturer #: 215846602
This defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every eight hours of run time.
$49.11
In Stock
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Light Bulb
PartSelect #: PS12751166
Manufacturer #: 316538904
Clear, 120 Volt, 40 Watt.
$25.08
In Stock
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Run Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS2333670
Manufacturer #: 5304464438
This part is attached to the compressor. It helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.
$68.04
In Stock
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Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS469269
Manufacturer #: 5303917954
This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
$33.65
In Stock
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Crisper Drawer Cover Support
PartSelect #: PS461210
Manufacturer #: 5303288973
This is the replacement crisper drawer cover support for your refrigerator. The crisper shelf rests on the support, which keeps it level. If your drawer cover or shelf will not stay level, or will not...
$35.85
Special Order
Screw
PartSelect #: PS1525528
Manufacturer #: 215005101
This screw is sold individually.
$18.10
In Stock
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Door Shelf Retainer Bar - Cut to Fit
PartSelect #: PS422630
Manufacturer #: 215366002
This is a white cut-to-fit door shelf retainer bar.
$68.77
In Stock
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Evaporator Fan Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS450319
Manufacturer #: 5300158289
This motor runs the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wires terminals. This motor rotates in a clockwise fashion. Its shaft has a diameter of 1/8" and is 1-1/4" long.
$149.43
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Evaporator Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS473177
Manufacturer #: 5308000010
$65.93
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Light Socket
PartSelect #: PS3655096
Manufacturer #: 218906802
$27.94
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Door/Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS474672
Manufacturer #: 5309918806
This part turns the light on/off as the door opens and closes.
$26.31
In Stock
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Hexagonal Screw
PartSelect #: PS1526503
Manufacturer #: 241710601
Sold individually.
$16.47
In Stock
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Questions And Answers for TRT17NRBW0
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Common Symptoms of the TRT17NRBW0
[Viewing 17 of 17]Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Light not working
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Leaking
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Fridge too cold
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Won’t start
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Freezer too cold
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Doesn’t stop running
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Clicking sound
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be removed.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Parts Used:
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Stephen from Warrington, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!
Parts Used:
-
Jordan from Maumee, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver
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Clicking sound then within a minute clicking again, not cooling.
UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it rattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.
Parts Used:
-
Melvin from Semmes, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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