TFF20DCM General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

The bottom hinge and the matching cam needed replacing. I removed the top hinge (which is held on with two screws), lifted the door off the bottom hinge. The replacement hinge and cam were exact. The door went back on with ease and it works like new.

Removed the three screws from old motor body-bracket assembly , pulled off 1/4'' spade terminals and removed shield from terminal block for re-use.
Removed fan from old unit and installed on new,
screwed new motor in place, replaced terminal wires, plugged back in refrigerator.
Now my old rerfrigerator is whisper quiet

took off the top hinge (one screw on the cover, and two bolts holding the hinge), lifted the door off the bottom hinge, saw that the riser cam had disintegrated. ordered the cam and the shim (since it looked like the shim was also going bad).
when the parts arrived, I took the top hinge off again, took the bracket holding the shim and cam off the bottom of the door (two bolts), removed the broken riser cam. Attached the shims and the cam to the bottom of the door with the bracket, replaced the door on the bottom hinge, replaced the top hinge, and the door closed correctly.

after three days, there was no condensation in the fridge, we decided that the gaskets did not need to be replaced.

qed.

Since the cam riser was obviously broken I obtained a replacement.
It also broke. The door hinge cam needed to be replaced also.
To repair Remove the hinge cover using a #2 phillips driver. Than remove the Hinge using an 8mm socket. Turn the door upside down and, using an 8mm socket remoge the cam riser and the door hinge cam.
Replace in reverse order.
Be sure to inspect all parts and order all required.

Unplug unit from wall. Removed cover from rear of unit. Cleaned coils with vaccuum cleaner. Unplug wires from fan motor and remove nut holding fan blade to motor. Remove 3 screws holding motor to mount. Replace with new motor,make sure fan blade does not hit housing. Plug unit back in wall and replace cover.

Remove the 4 screws holding the back cover onto the refrigerator. Unplug the power for the refrigerator. There's 3 bolts holding the fan motor assembly to the refrigerator. Loosen the two bolts which allow the brackets to pivot out , and remove the third bolt. Disconnect the electrical leads, and remove the fan blade, then rotate the fan motor assembly out from the refrigerator. Install mounting brackets from the old motor onto the new motor, then reinstall the assembly in the reverse order of removal.

Removed the storage bins, unscrewed the old rails, screwed in the new rails and saved a Sears service call plus their mark up on the parts. Estimated savings was about $100.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

I layed several small 2x4 blocks on the floor, then raised the door up from the hinge, using the small pry bar. Then removed the the screws for the hinge. Removed the screws holding the door stop and removed the door cam. Then, I replaced the door closing cam. Replaced the hinge and screws. I Lowered the door on to the hinge and applied a little lubricant to the cam and job complete.

Was not hard. It was the bottom hinge so we had to take the door off, but that was only a matter of a couple of screws. Replaced the bottom hinge and closing cam, replaced the door and it was done.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

I had to defrost freezer first becasue it was heavily iced up. Then I found that one of the heater elements was "open". I removed both of the old heater elements and installed the replacement parts.