TBX22PIBRRCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Unscrewed four screws, two on each part, and replaced broken parts, reinserting screws. This is a no-brainer repair.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Remove the one screw holding the unit in place, unplug it, slide in the replacement, plug and screw it in.

Removed icemaker from freezer,
Removed 3 screws from cover plate, and removed screw securing main gear, removed gear.
Pulled back cover plate to expose switches and mechanism.
Removed screw holding switch to remove switch, and installed new switch.
I should have taken a pic of the cover plate, the interior mechanism and the wiring as I went along. It would have saved me 45 minutes in reassembly. Also, as luck would have it, I reversed the wiring on the switch. So off was on, and I had to remove it, switch wires and re-install.
But it works!

Unplugged the refrigerator then used the cordless drill to remove the 6 screws on the access panel on the back of the fridge to be able to get to the fan. Was able to pull the fan off by hand and push the new fan on by hand. Plugged the refrigerator by in and watched the fan run for a few minutes then replaced the access panel. Really quick and easy repair.

Separately (from a different site) purchased new compressor fan and motor. I purchased the grommets here because the other site listed the grommets as temporarily out of stock. I did watch one of the videos on PartSelect about the grommet replacement. Repair was pretty simple, biggest challenge was getting to the screw on the far side of the motor. Removed the two screws holding the fan motor into place. Removed motor and blade. Reinstalled with new fan blade, new grommet and new motor.

I had to remove the glass shelve, the two drawers, and the middle rail. Once I did that, I slide the unit out together. I placed the unit on the floor and removed the one screw located on the far backside of the unit. I had to remove a slip cover (it had the kenmore logo and the writting on it) it was a snap on, so no problem. Glad it was not gluded on. After the old part was removed, I put the new part on. Put the two screws back on and snap the cover back on. Then I put the whole unit back in. This included the glassshelve and drawers. The process was pretty easy. Good luck with your change.

Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.

Took out shelf & brackets. Removed plastic shelf. Unscrewed broken bracket & screwed in new bracket.
Put back in & replaced the shelf.

My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!

Easy

Video is a great but still need to read the instuctions because there are parts you may need on the old ice maker. Saved myself a bit of money by not having to call a repairman. The process was very simple. I am glad I did it myself. Thank you Parts Select!

Both side rails were busted. the parts were precise and it was extremely easy. Thanks again.

Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.

unplug refrigerator. Remove Ice bin then remove the cover off the ice maker,(slides off from bottom then lift off top) no reason to remove ice maker completely. Remove center gear screw and remove main gear from Ejector blade. remove (3) screws holding the front plate. The motor and switches are attached to this plate from behind, do not remove the nut from the from the stud that adjusts the travel for the motor. The Motor and switches will come upt with the plate and the shut off arm will come out of a hole in the top right. Its ok just be careful when you put it back to get it in the hole. remove the old cam and replace it wint the new one and reassemble. Its a bit tricky to get all of the microswitches over the new cam just carefully wiggle the plate and cam and don't push too hard. once everything is lined up it should go back together and you can replace the screws and main gear :)