SWX703HQ1 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

I met her in the basement lonely and needing a fix i went down on my knees and started to take off her worn out belt slowly down past her pulley and off her soon to be hot transmision. i gently held her pulleys as i wrapped her new belt around them. putting her chasies back together and plugging her in i pushed her button and off she went shakening and rallting once again.

The original inlet valve comes in from the rear and the replacement inlet valve mounts horizontally and this will not allow the use of the valve mounting plate and I needed to make a new plate so the supply hose could mount. After making the new plate and having the supply hose attach vertically, the system appears to be functioning properly. Having to make a new mounting plate was an unexpected adventure!

This is a front loader and the video I saw was a top loader. I removed the oval shaped centerpiece off the back to reach the pump. I also removed the filter and cleaned it, I used screw type hoseclamp in place of the tension spring for easier assembly due to the cramped space. This helped the drain problem as did cleaning the filter. The no spin problem persisted and I ordered the door lock part. This part fixed the no spin problem.

Firs things first - get as much water out of the basin as possible using a siphon or a container and a sponge. Have towels ready for inevitable spillage. Dispose of water in a toilet. Remove the front panel of the washer. The pump is attached with 2 screws/nuts. Remove the pump and place in an empty bucket. Then remove the hose clamps from the washer inside the bucket to catch any water left in the hoses. Attach the new pump to the washer. Then attach the hoses to the new pump. Replacement is very fast and easy - total time from setup to testing, to cleanup 1.5 hours.

The longest part was cleaning and taking the washer apart , the screws were rusted to the bottom of the washer front,had to spray and pound on screws to get them out.after cleaning dirt and rust in the washer I greased the idle pulley.Putting on the belt was a snap.I also had to repair a leg screw that keeps the washer level, Washer runs like a new washer. very Pleased with the results. Its like having an old washer restored to new. it looks and sounds like a new washer.It took less then 5 mins to change the lid strike.

Remove the agitator and the 2 bolts that clamp the spin drum to the shaft and pull up on drum the 2 seals are on the shaft right there. Pry up on the seals to remove them. Install all seals and Be sure to completely clean all parts before putting them back in the machine and re assemble the machine. The bad part of this job is if you have used powdered soap it took 3 hours to clean the parts before reassembly.

For the washer/Dryer combo, replacing water valve was easy, first you need to remove washer front panel and top lid, make sure that washer electrical is unplugged, turn off gas, turn off water valves.remove 1-screw holding water valve. reaching from top and using pliers remove retention clip holding hose. remove old water valve, there are two electrical connections for cold and hot water valves, make sure you mark them, remove them from old water valve. insert new water valve, connect hose and make sure that retaining clip is connected correctly.connect electrical wires. screw water valve into place from rear of washer. connect water hoses. before connecting panel and lid, turn on water valves and observe if there is any water leaks.

remove everything per your installation sheets which were right on ,everything when great. thank you .The only thing i had a problem with was ordering your bolts. The order list was not clear on how many bolts you get when you order. It did not say per screw I order 1, thinking it was the set of 5 but it was 1. ps460201 also bolts #ps3655064 i order 1 but there two Please let everyone know that .Again thank you great instruction Gary

Removal was relatively simple, and pretty self explanitory as per the instuctions on the website, except for having to actually take sandpaper to the agitator shaft to remove the rust build up from many years of use.After getting the rust off, made it easier to remove the seal housing. Removed and cleaned the seal area and replace with the new seals. Everything went pretty well. Put in the new belt tensioner pulley and replace the covers. Ran the machine at medium load cycle. No leaks, no noise from the pulley. Runs like a new machine. The lady was really pleased with the results.

It was easy. No problem getting the to v-belt.

removed two screw at the bottom of front panel and pulled down on panel to remove, determined water coming out splash seal, splash cover held on with plastic clips around cover. Removed two screws on back side of top and hinged top over removed splash cover and cleaned old seal out replaced with new seal.Simple job but could not find parts locally and found Partselect on internet and ordered parts, very friendly and knowledgible person, ordered parts and had them in three days, would very highly recommend. Thank You Joe Lumpkin