SCE30600BC Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

After turning off the circuit to the oven, I first removed the 6 exterior screws holding the upper unit that houses the clock element, then I disconnected the three wiring connectors. The difficult one is the ribbon connector. You must push in the two clips on the end and then raise one side of the connector in order to have it release the ribbon. then I removed the 4 screws that hold the element. You then just put the new one on in reverse of removing the old one. It works great. This could be made easier if each new unit came with visual picture instructions for removing the ribbon cable connector. I read all 14 previous customer reviews or stories, before I found one nice guy that described the proper method of removing this ribbon. Thanks

The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

We operated the oven without the display panel for three years and finally discided to get it repaired. The cost of the repair was going to be over 330.00. I went online to PartSelect and had the part in a few days. I removed the 4 front screws behind each of the knobs, next I removed the 4 screws and 4 hex bolts under the front panel. The two side panels needed to be removed by taking out the screw from under each panel. Remove the front control panel and release the ribbon cable by pressing in on the two side tabs allowing the locking connector to be rasie up relaseing the ribbon cable. The other two power cable can be gently removed. Two hex bolts hold the disply panel to the front panel. Installation is the reverse of the removal process. The process took less then 20 minutes. PartSelect customer service was very professional and I will use them again without a second thought.

This is a slide-in range, so I:
1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the range. The range is hard-wired, so can't just be unplugged. I determined the clock on the range went off.
2. Removed 4 screws holding the front control panel to the cooktop. Removed 2 screws from each side panel into the cooktop. Removed 4 screws from the rear panel holding the cooktop.
3. With my assistant (my wife) lifted the cooktop and tilted it so that I could access the underside.
4. Used an iPad to take photos from several angles of the wire connections from each burner control. Printed the one showing the connections on the dual burner control.
5. Removed the 4 screws holding the sheet metal support for the dual burner and one of the other burners. Released the spring steel retainers holding the dual burner. Removed the burner.
6. Used the iPad again to take photos of the connections to the dual burner, and printed it.
7. Removed all the wire connections to the burner. Checked continuity from the center (common) terminal to each of the other terminals. Determined that in fact the inside coil was open (burned out).
8. Removed the two screws holding the spring clip retainers on the old burner. Matched the old and new burners to determine where the spring clips should go. Drilled 2 small holes in the base of the new burner and screwed the clips from the old burner on the new one.
9. Now the tricky part: The new burner didn't have the exact same limiter and heat sensor probe as the old one. After several false starts, we were able to barely make out the terminal letter/number designations on the control and match them to the same letter/numbers on the new burner. It required a magnifier and a strong flashlight to read these engraved markings.
10. Made the connections on the burner. I used a pair of long-nosed pliers to carefully pull the connections off the spade terminals, and attch them on the new burner.
11. Mounted the burner to the sheet metal support using the spring clips previously installed.
12. Re-attached the 4 screws holding the burner support to the cooktop.
13. Carefully replaced the cooktop onto the range, paying special attention to not pinching any of the wires, and making sure all the wires, from all the burners were still connected.
14. Replaced all 12 screws holding the cooktop to the range.
15. Turned on the power, and checked all burners, including the new one, to see if they were opetating properly. YAY! They all worked!

It must be noted that we had to call a repairman to troubleshoot our installation the first time. We had reversed two of the wires to the new burner, because of the difference between the old and the new limiter connections. The engraved markings in the porcelain were very difficult to see. The instructions that came with the new burner never addressed this issue, and instead had very confusing (and worthless) instructions about replacing the limiter from the old burner to the new on. (This was not possible, anyway).

After the repairman left, we discovered the front burner that had been working, no longer was. With our newfound experience, we repeated the previous steps to take the range apart and discovered one of the wires had become disconnected from that burner. We re-connected it, re-attached the cooktop, and everything worked.

One telltale indicator that we had mixed up the connections on the burner, was the red "hot' warning light on the range top came on as soon as we restored power, even though no burners had been on. I should mention that the dual burner "worked" a couple of times even with the reversed connections, but then failed to work any more.

Isolated circuit by disconnecting cooktop breaker.
Disconnected blower duct, raised cooktop above the countertop to access screws holding the glass surface.
Blocked in place--no need to completely remove cooktop.
Removed screws around top of pan with 1/4-inch nut driver--only need to remove any screws close to top of pan and glass surface.
Lifted off glass surface.
Dual burner switch bracket needs to be removed to access switch and to disconnect wire harness connections.
Note there was one screw holding bottom of bracket which was hidden by the wire harness.
I was concerned with connections from other reviews; however, in my case, the switch and connections were identical to the original--no problem.
Reinstalled bracket and glass cooktop--need to remember flange location (inside versus outside) to assure easy alignment of screws. Drop cooktop back into countertop and reconnect blower duct.
Powered back up and dual burner now fully functional.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

The expert said to replace the clock control and linked to the replacement part. The part was promptly shipped. The only difficult part of the repair turned out to be the removal of the ribbon from the old controller. I noted the tabs on the side of the ribbon receptacle and expected the ribbon to release when these were pushed in. What was actually needed was to not only push in but also to pull upward on the tabs in order to release the ribbon. That was not obvious and it took me a while to get the ribbon released.

Followed the first persons instructions and they worked perfectly including using the jumper wire.

Very easy. 1. Turn off power to oven. 2 move the adjustable grills out to gain better access. 3. There are two phillips head screws that hold a bracket to the back of the inside oven. Unscrew both screws. 4 pull the bake element out about 6". This exposes the two electrical connections. 5. Use a plier and wiggle the slide on connector off of the old bake element. 6. With your fingers, slip the old connectors onto the new bake element. 7. Slide the element and wires back in the insulated pocket. 8. Screw both screws back in. 9. Turn on power and make your wife back you chocolate chip cookies just to "test". Sit in an easy chair and enjoy your cookies. If this took longer than 30 minutes inclding baking the cookies, it took you too long. If the cookies are not good, replace the wife. May take a little loger though :)

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

Had estimates of $ 500.00+ to replace clock assembly. Purchased it at parts select for approx $ 200.00 and put it in myself. Will pocket the $ 300.00. Thanks. Turn breaker to stove off. Removed four screws underneath front panel. Must open oven door to access screws. Tilted the panel out from the bottom allowing the top of the panel to come out. Had to remove the two knobs on either side of the clock along with the clock knobs. When the two knobs on the side are removed it releases the mounting brackets for the clock inside the panel. Replaced clock assembly wires one at a time. Reassembled in reverse procedure.

First I turned the power off to the stove at the breaker box. I opened the oven door and took off the four hex head screws holding the face panel on. There are four philips screws holding a trim piece on the panel that does not need to be removed and the two end caps do not need to be removed either. I pulled the panel out and tipped it up so I could access the clock display unit. There are two wiring harness clips that unplugged very easily. The ribbon connector is a little more tricky. You have to slide up two clips on the end and then slide up a section going across the ribbon. It's very easy, just don't try to pull the ribbon out without undoing the clips. The display unit was held on with two hex head screws. I removed them, attatched the new one and put it back together. I then turned the oven back on to see if it worked. The display worked perfectly but, the oven would still not get hot on bake. I turned the breaker off again and removed the shelves in the oven. I then removed the two phillips screws holding the bottom bake burner in and pulled it out until I could access the clips. I pulled off the clips and checked the burner for continuity. There was none so I ordered a new bake burner. The new burner showed up the next day and I hooked it up in about 5 minutes. The oven works great and I couldn't be happier with the experience I had with partselect.com

Turned off the breaker to the stove and removed the 4 screws under the control panel. The trim strip and the end caps did not have to be removed. The control panel was lowered just enough to clear the upper edge and then tilted forward so the connectors could be disconnected. Two screws holding the display in place were removed and the new display swapped out. Reassembly was disassembly in reverse. (My wife appreciates having a bright display again.)

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!