This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This single chrome oven rack provides a reliable flat cooking surface for your cookware inside of the oven cavity. The oven rack is made of metal and measures approximately 24” wide by 17 1/2” deep. T...
Need a solution for a jittery drawer in your General Electric Range/Stove/Oven? The Genuine Replacement Drawer Glide is the answer. It keeps your broil or storage drawer sliding smoothly on your range...
If your gas burner isn’t heating evenly or looks worn out, this replacement burner head might be just what you need. It’s about 3.5 inches wide, made of sturdy metal with a silver finish, and rated at...
This right-side drawer glider allows smooth and stable drawer movement. Designed for durability and precise alignment, it supports effortless opening and closing.
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
This genuine small burner is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with a wide range of gas ranges. Positioned between the rangetop and bracket assembly and the burner cap, it plays a...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
2 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
KRAIG
November 11, 2021
The oven portion of the stove is exactly 50 degrees off. I have to set it at 400 to have a temperature of 350 as shown on an oven thermometer
For model number RGB745WEH4WW
Hi Kraig,
Thank you for contacting us. If the oven is not reaching the desired temperature, the issue may be with the oven sensor. The oven temperature sensor is the part that monitors the oven temperature and signals the electronic control board to turn the elements on and off. Before removing this part from the oven and testing it with a multimeter for continuity, unplug the oven from the electrical outlet. To test the sensor, you will need to reference your owner’s manual to determine what the correct reading should be for your model, as this varies from model to model. To test it for continuity, use a multimeter on the Rx1 setting and touch the terminals with the probes. This test needs to be done with the sensor at room temperature to produce accurate results. If your test results do not meet the manufacturer’s guidelines, you need a replacement temperature sensor. If the sensor is fine, you will need to check the electronic control board and the wiring between the parts to see which one is causing the issue. We hope this helps! If you have any questions, please let us know.
Burners light and work fine. Oven does not turn on.
For model number RGB745WEH4WW
Hi Edward, thank you for contacting us. The issue could be with the control board, part number PS3486627. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
A G.E. tech came out and quoted $500 to replace the circuit board. I unbolted the board myself and used the camera in my phone to take a picture of the wiring. Then I came to PartSelect.com and using their diagrams found the replacement board for $75. It came in the mail a few days later. I used to picture in my phone to reconnect all the wires, bolted everything back up and baked some cookies. Thanks PartSelect for making my repair job simple and inexpensive.
First I needed the correct model number & the correct part numbers for the two front tube assemblies. After that well.... I removed everything on top of the stove. I then proceded to remove all the torx screws for each orifice holder bracket & igniter wires so i could raise the top lid ( without this step you will wind up replacing more than one tube assembly!) Be careful when removing color coded wires so that they work with the correct burner. Remove compression nut to burner valve... i used a crowfoot. remove orifice holder from bracket & install new holder ( onto bracket). Install orifice assembly to burner valve ( do not over tighten), re-install wires to igniters, lower lid, and re-install torx screws. The correct parts require little effort to align. Last of all, test burners and check for leaks. Thanks for reading, I will continue to learn from my mistakes!
