PYE22KBLRTS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.

The glass fits easily under a plastic ridge that is the frame holding the 2 vegetable drawers below. Slide the back side of the glass under the ridge, and then gently place the front of the glass in the groove where it goes on top of the vegetable drawers.
Its Super simple, and takes literally 30 seconds to complete.

1. Verified good water flow by unplugging incoming water and makIng sure there was good pressure.

2. Re-attached water supply line and unplugged water line after the electronic valve to test water pressure from valve when hitting the dispense button in the front of the refrigerator.

Found very little flow directly after the valve.

Replaced valve and now everything is good. (Refrigerator is less than 2 years old)

1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.

Our fridge sits within our cabinets with one over top of it. That plus the leveler feet to secure it in place made this easy task a little more difficult. I was able to remove the top panel to access the switches. I was concerned, as I had not unplugged it because of the feet and went for it regardless, figuring if there was a shock, it would be minimal.

I was able to switch out the switches no problem. The only problem is it did not resolve the issue with my lights.

Remove all trays, no need to turn app. off,
remove cover on top of back panel, may be a little difficult
remove 2 screws , one behind top plate, one in the middle of large back cover.
remove small cover located at the bottom of the back cover discinnect electrical plug,
remove or loosen 6 screws on lower evap cover, there is no need to remove evap cover, just pry it loose from back.
lift back cover off and disconnect electrical fan will be at the bottom of the large cover.
run warm water over fan and push out.
remove rubber cover and install on new fan,
reinstall new fan and reverse process.
very easy and simple and only takes about 30 minutes.

After looking up what might be the problem, I ordered a new control
board. It was extremely easy to replace. Unfortunately it was not operational. I had to replace my refrigerator. The return process was very easy and my refund was processed quickly.

Replaced the 8 year old icemaker.
Turned off power.
Did not need to turnoff water supply.
Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover.
Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister
temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover.
Disconnected both wire connectors.
Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard.
Installed new icemaker in reverse order.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Used ratchet set, and unscrewed old one and screwed in new. Disconnected the wires and plugged in new one.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.