PTI22SFMARBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(

Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

Very simple fix. Just remove the back cover, unscrew the water valve, unplug the water valve and disconnect the water line. Then reinstall the new one. Takes about 15 to 20 min and it worked like a champ

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Replaced Double Outlet Water Valve then defrosted coiled plastic water tubing at bottom position inside refrigerator into pan of hot water for 10 minutes. Water still did not flow. Defrosted refrigerator and water dispenser immediately resumed operation. Suggestion -
defrost refrigerator first.

Replacement valve fit perfectly but didn't fix the problem. More troubleshooting found blockage through the water filter assy although I don't use a filter and just have the the bypass plug installed...7 years like this. Used compressed air to blow out the line and got some crud out. Works now but can't turn water pressure up full or line hammers and stops flow. Left supply valve open slightly which supplies ice maker fine and dispenser ok. Must be something wrong with internal spring stopper in filter assy...keeps water from pouring out if filter or bypass not installed.

I thought it must be the water valve leaking by so I ordered one and put it on myself which was a very easy job. It fixed my problem and everything works fine now. First I unplugged the refrigerator shut off water line block shutoff valve. Then I removed the back plate on refiigerator. Then I removed the water line from the water valve. After that I unplugged the two wiring harnesses. Then I removed the two plastic water lines from water valve. then I inbolted the water valve from refrigerator. Then I got new valve, plugged both water lines into it, plugged both wiring harnesses back into it, hooked main water line back up then turned water back on.

I changed the filter first as this has happened before when the filter got too old. Still did not work, so ordered the double outlet water valve as the ice dispenser was working. The part was easy to install with the video directions. However, water still did not dispense. Felt the water coil behind the crisper in the refrigerator and it seemed kind of hard. I wondered if it was frozen. Took a hair dryer to it for about 45 seconds and then tried the water again. Voila' This time it worked. Apparently it WAS frozen. I may have not needed to change the filter or water valve, but everything is working fine so I will leave well enough alone.

Replaced dispenser door flapper by following the do it yourself video in this site. It was really easy. Just be careful when removing the dispenser black bezel. I broke one of the little tabs when taking it off.

Took the old filter out and put the new one in.
Easy Breezy!!

First time the water hose in the door was frozen. Thawed hose and started water flow. About 2 week later water stopped once again. Did a little trouble shooting and determined the valve stopped working. Ordered a unit, installed in a very shor time and all is good so far.

Researched on internet/you tube; ordered part, and did the repair. Easy to do and saved the cost of a service call.

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.