PSKS333EB4WW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

It's a very easy repair. However, there are no installation instructions included with the gaskets. Per videos I watched, it recommended that the gaskets be soaked in warm / hot water to make them more pliable when installing. Unfortunately, after installing the refrigerator gaskets, there were gaps that I could not seal resulting in an interior temperature of 48 degrees. For some reason, the gaskets appeared to be puckered thereby preventing a decent seal. I don't know if the puckering was caused by the soaking. I ended up reinstalling the old gaskets.

Followed the video showing how it was done. Took me longer to go to the basement and shut the water off and on, than it did to replace the valve

The problem was both the valve and a frozen slug of water in the supply line located inside the door. After replacing the valve, I turned the freezer to a setting of 1 and in about 30 hours, water flowed out the tap.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Watch G.E refrigerator troubleshooting guide from partselect.com. made necessary cks.called part select discuss finding determined cause order part, paid extra $10.00 for 2 day shipping spent total $93.00 plug unit into side of compressor ,unit operating great .8 hrs. later freezer 0° ref.36°.
Note:
Contacted two different appliances repair co.,both 2days to schedule repair time, both cost over $350.00 repair costs, don't know if that included taxs.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Nothing to tell it was just a replacement part that the old part was removed and the new one inserted. Works like a dream Thanks

We actually followed the instructions of the video for the installation of the dual inlet valve and it was incredibly easy to perform. The fridge works perfect again!

I ordered 2 gaskets for the upper doors. They arrived on time, as promised. I left them in the sun for a day to soften them and to make them more pliable. I followed the YouTube directions: simply pulled the old ones off and molded and stretched the new ones into place around the door frames as instructed. I did not need any tools!
When I noticed areas next to the body of the fridge weren't unfolding into place, I used a hairdryer to heat the rubber around the closed doors. That allowed me to do a final manipulation of pressing the seals into place.
Doing this simple repair was fun and saved me from buying a new fridge..terrific !!!

Removed the divided glass shelf, to which the slide rail is attached. Removed the broken rail, saved the two screws.
Now comes the clincher:
It would help if the replacement part website would tell you what size and what kind screwdriver you will need, so you could start chasing it while you wait for the part.
Even better if they could include it, since the plastic part and it‘s shipment is not exactly cheap.
So to screw in two screws you need a #15 Star screwdriver!
How many housewife’s have this one in the tool drawer?

just had to unscrew old one put the new one in

Just fallow video shows that it 123 !

Shut water behind the refrigerator, unplugged the unit. Unscrewed the back tin panel and simply unscrewed the brace scew for the Double Outlet Water Valve. Disconnected the hoss - inspected the hosed for wear. Next detached the hoses and power source to the unit... reconnected both hoses & power source, plug the refrigator back in and inspected for any water leaks. Simple!