This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators.
Door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manu...
$134.81
Special Order
Questions And Answers for PSC23MGMABB
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Denny
March 9, 2020
My water does not dispenser thru the dispenser. I have replaced 1) dispenser door solenoid assembly 2) union connector 3) micro switch. 4) flapper my unit has a water filter bypass cap.My unit is making ice and is dispensing ice just fine
not sure what to do next. at one time a few years back i replaced the wr57x10026 water valve. is it possible that this part is bad? i'm confused
For model number PSC23MGMABB
Hi Denny,
Thank you for your question. If you have replaced all of these parts and the unit is still not dispensing water, you should check the water inlet valve. It is possible a component in the valve may have failed. You will need to test the water inlet valve with a multi-meter. After disconnecting the water supply and unplugging your refrigerator, remove the rear access panel and locate the water inlet valve. It is usually found near the bottom of the refrigerator. Begin by inspecting all the tubing, and their respective connections, for leaks, damage, wear, abrasions, or brittle tubing. If you do not locate the source of the leak in the above checks, remove the water inlet valve to test it. With a multi-meter in Rx1 mode, touch the terminals with the probes to test for continuity. A functional water inlet valve should put off a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. If you receive any other reading, you need a replacement water inlet valve. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
Removed black cardboard covering on back of refrig with nut driver (6 screws), turned off water supply to pump, removed cooper waterline to pump with adjustable wrench, removed 1 screw holding pump to refrigerator, removed plastic waterline from pump by turning hose counter clockwise. Inserter plastic water line in new pump by screwing line in clockwise, pushed orange plastic stop around waterline into pump, connected cooper water line to pump first wrapping threads on pump with teflon plumbers tape, reinstalled pump to refrig and cardboard back on refrig with 6 screws.
One side note:.
This is the second pump which has burst at the blue plastic seam in seven years.
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off three nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
