PSB9100DF2BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Slips in easily. Line up the tabs with the brackets and pop in.

Removed cover
Disconnected capacitor from old magnetron
Removed old magnetron
Installed new part
Connected capacitor
Reinstalled cover

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

PER YOUR INSTRUCTION

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

Went on Youtube and pulled up how to fix a microwave.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

Followed instructions that came with bulb I ordered and could not have been easier. Will use this site again.

Part Select sent the wrong part I did not realize it until prong broke off one of the bulbs. They sent 130v instead of 120v. Return bulbs awaiting resolution.

Checked all sensors with a multi-meter, found the thermostat to be the problem, no continuity.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

Our Microwave’s Halogen Light Bulb burned out.

We looked in our manual and were able to take the cover off to get to the bulb, but we were unable to unscrew the builb and the bulb in the manual did not match the size of the one you offer (size and part number were different)

We called 1-888-738-4871.

Gentleman who answered was very knowledgeable: answered all of our questions (PULL THE OLD BULB OUT) and assisted us by ordering replacement bulbs.

We (more importantly my wife) were very pleased with the result.

change bulb

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replace the fuses