PGS968DEP2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I did find instruction in the Q&A on how to to change the part was for an older oven.

Here are the instructions that matched my oven model "JGSP42SET1SS"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHg-O1-NnXM

I also had issues where the connector for the new part would not come through the hole in the back of the oven. I used a shoestring around the connector so I would have a good grip on it when I disconnected the old igniter.This allowed me to have a good grip to reconnect to the new igniter.

While you have this apart I would also recommend that you remove the burner and blow out any material that may have accumulated over the years,

Could not have been easier. All screws are 1/4 inch. Oven door can be removed to make it easier to get to screws in back of oven,but igniter can be installed with door in place. Remove bottom panel then remove four screws on flame spreader. Remove trwo screws that hold igniter in place. Replace with new igniter, it may be necessary to remove the clip on new igniter and splice the two leads. Now your cooking with gas.

The oven lamp shattered while cleaning. Easy to replace by hand.

Threw the old one out - plugged the new one in. Steak came out just as ordered - medium rare.

Followed GE repair video

This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported.
- works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.

took out old gasket and inserted new

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

Flip toggles to release the oven door. Pull up on oven door to remove. Put door aside. Lift enamel bottom. Slide strait out. Remove aluminum shielding from around the igniter. Loosen igniter, unplug the igniter. Remove burner cowling. Plug in new igniter. Attach cowling to new igniter. Screw it all back in place. Stuff wiring connected back through the protective hole. Depress close door button and test. It takes about 10-15 seconds to ignite. Reinstall aluminum protector. Re install bottom enamel piece. Carfully slide oven door back on pegs and flip toggles to lock. Have a big glass of water and yell, Honey I fixed the oven!!

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

open the oven door (remove) ,disassemble the igniter ,replace the igniter .

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

Nothing technical.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!