PFS22MBSAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

No directions supplied with product. Be very careful to not break the old parts moving them to the new.

Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.

After reading this forum and other searches, I assumed replacing the board may solve my problem. Unscrewed the back plate, used pliers to pull out the connectors, squeezed in the sides of the 4 plastic white board holders to release the board, and then replaced old board with the new one and reconnected connectors. (My model was not one of the mentioned models for cutting the 2nd pin of the J1 connector, so I left it in.) Upon plugging my frig back in, it began working perfectly again. So thankful to have found this forum!

Removed the board cover from the back, removed old board, installed new board, installed cover.

Removed back cover from unit. unpluged wirring harness installed new control board and refigerator runs lik new

Part arrived 2 days before anticipated. I was able to keep my fridge running long enough to get the new part in, which took no time at all. The Main Board relay would start clicking and the compressor would shut down. By unplugging the top right plug for a minute and plugging it back in I was able to keep it running for a few hours at a time. Good enough to keep my food from going bad. Thr part was an easy plug in replacement, was a good price, and works great.

It was a very simple installation after reading about everyone else having the same "noise" problem with their GE side by side refrigerator.

I simply; pulled the refrigerator out, turned off the power, took off the 3 screws to remove the plate, unhooked the 5 or so connections with my hands, put the new part in, hooked the connections up, put the plate back on, plugged the refrigerator back in, and slid in back into place. It took around 10 minutes to do, very simple.

Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. was very helpful at recommending that a solution to my problem was to replace the ASM Main Domestic Motherboard. I ordered and received the board in two days from PartSelect. After unplugging the refrigerator I used a nut driver to remove the three screws that held the motherboard cover in place and then disconnected all of the connections to the board. Next, using a pair of needle nose pliers, I gently squeezed on the white plastic anchor retainers that fastened the motherboard to the refrigerator. While doing this at each anchor I gently pulled on the motherboard until it was separated from the retainer anchor post. There were four retainers total. I removed the old board and in the reverse order installed the new board. All of the connectors were easy to match to the new board because the wiring connectors coming out of the back of the refrigerator were only long enough to hook to the correct connectors on the circuit board. There was an extra connector that I didn't use on the new board and also the connection for the ground wire used a ring connector instead of a spade connector. To remedy this I simply used the ground wire assembly from my old board. I also took the time to remove the lower cover on my refrigerator and cleaned the condensing coil with a vacuum cleaner. The total time to replace the motherboard and clean the condensing coil was about 20 minutes from start to finish. This repair solved the problem with my evaporator fan. A big thanks to Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. for helping diagnosis my problem and suggesting the correct replacement part. I saved between $100.00 to $150.00 not having to call out an appliance repair person to fix my refrigerator.

i Removed back panels and then I removed the faulty circuit board. Installed new circuit board and presto everything worked. I can't believe how easy it was but on the other hand I couldn't believe a refrigerator had such a sophisticated part..

replaced main board.

1. Pulled refrigerator out
2. Unpluged the refrigerator
3. Removed the three screws holding the cover on.
4. Removed Board ASM Main Control.
5. Unpluged Connector's.
6. Pluged Connector's in to new Board ASM Main Control.
7. Put cover back on.
8. Pluged refrigerator back in.
9. Pushed refrigerator back into place.

Followed the partselect video on how to replace motherboard and the video described the exact replacement procedure.

Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.

Unplug the refrigerator from the wall plug and take the plate off of the circuit board in the back of the refrigerator. Remove the screws holding the board in place. Remove the board by pinching the little white pins holding the board inplace. Disconnect the wires from the circuit board and install the new board in its place. Notice the wire prongs so that they are connected the same as they were on the previous board. Replace the screws that hold the cover. Plug it in. If it does not turn on, remove the plug from the wall and re insert it. The new board has to reset itself.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.