PFCF1NFZAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

Watched you tube video for gasket application for GE refrigerators

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Nothing to tell it was just a replacement part that the old part was removed and the new one inserted. Works like a dream Thanks

just had to unscrew old one put the new one in

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

This is a simple repair. You remove the two upper crisper drawers, remove the bottom slide draw that holds cheese, etc. Then lift up on the crisper pan cover and pull out. Note: the old crisper pan will have 2 rubber moldings you will need to move to the new one and there is a sponge molding that if you peel off very carefully you can put on the new pan otherwise you will need to buy that. No one told me that and I wish they did... so that is why I am writing this.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser

Remove gaskets from boxes and place on a flat surface for a day of so to remove shipping folds.

Before installation we placed the gaskets in a bath tub od warm water to soften.

E tested the dimensions before removing old gaskets by placing the new gaskets on the doors careful to make sure the were oriented the same.

Removed old gasket and installed the new.

Softening helped with pushing the gasket into the rails.

No tools needed and DID NOT remove the door to install

Remove back panel on bottom of fridge to access compressor area. Remove screws from water solenoid and water valve and push to the side so the side of the compressor can be accessed. Then locate the inverter box. You will find a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the inverter. This is the only screw that hold the inverter in place. Remove the screw and tilt the inverter box forward away from the compressor, then lift the box out of the the holder. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it out. Remove the plug that attaches to the compressor and then with the power on check your voltage coming to the compressor. It should read 120 volt. If it doesn’t your inverter is bad. Remove the other plug on the inverter box and pull the box out.
Reinstall the unit in reverse order. Use the appropriate jumper to plug into the wire connection going to box and then plug it into the connection off the fridge.
Once everything is reinstalled and before you put the back panel on plug your refrigerator back in and you should be able to hear the compressor working or feel the top of it to make sure. If it’s working you are good and can reinstall the back panel.
It will take 4-5 hours to come back to temp if it’s been off for any length of time.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.