PDWT502V50II General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.

I disconnected the pipes to the inlet valve. I removed the bolts from the bracket holding the valve. I tried to use two wrenches to remove the brass angle pipe thingie off the bottom of the old valve. I then beat on it with a hammer, then I just threw it against the basement floor till it came off. I would recommend getting a new brass angle pipe thingie before you start.

Removed the holding screws around the edges; removed and replaced the soap container; reconnected the electrical leads, and done... Very simple fix. But it does get a little tricky since the door is spring loaded. NOTE: THERE ARE SCREWS AT THE BOTTOM THAT IS NOT OBVIOUS.

we followed the instructions as posted on your web site. Once the dishwasher was apart it was self explanatory. We did however need pliers to separate the wires from the old soap dispenser.

Remove the door panel screws on the inside door frame. You only need to remove as many as needed to remove the larger bottom panel. The other screws will remove the upper button panel and this is not necassary. Unplug the Detergent Dispenser (it may take some force, and unscrew the dispencer. Replace with the new one, screw back in place, and reattatch the plug. Now replace the door panel and screw it back in place. This is all very simple. The only problem I encountered was that the only dispenser had built up so much detergent residue around its base, that it had distorted the plastic around it. This caused the new dispense to not sit flush all the way around, and the dishwasher leaked into the door on its first cycle. Simply filling the gap with 100% silicon caulk has fixed the problem. Washes like new.

removed inside door panel to access the pump; then replaced with new pump

I began to notice a loud grinding sound when my dishwasher blower motor kicked in (mostly at the end of the entire washing cycle). It was obvious where the noise was coming from (upper left side of door). Ordered blower motor / fan and replaced it. Problem solved! When taking the front panel off, be very aware of all screws. There is a screw on the right side of the door that screws inward. It holds the control unit. If not removed, the control unit screw hole will break off and it will be difficult for you to secure the control unit. Be aware that there are two small screws that point UP below the front panel. Be sure to remove those too. Take pictures of the wires before disconnecting from the control unit. It's fairly obvious, but cheap insurance if needed when reassembling. The fan motor in the upper left of the panel. There are a large gray venting unit above it. You will need to remove that unit in order to expose the screws to remove the fan motor. Once removed, replace the fan motor and work backwards to connect everything again. Possibly take a few moments to clean the inside of your door panel to remove any hard water build up from any moisture that leaked into your door panel. Hope this helps.

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

opened the dishwasher .............removed the old and slid in the new ...then attached by dropping in the utensil compartment.....piece of cake

Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.

Pulled out the old gasket and replaced with the new gasket. Inserted the steel spring clip into the ends of the gasket. Repair complete.

Remove door cover shell by removing screws in inside of door. Unplug harness to control module.Remove outer door shell.Remove four screws at the blower motor. Replace with new motor after disconnecting harness to motor. Reinstall module harness reinstall door shell.

NOTE I have classified this is a DIFFICULT JOB, but NOT because of the mechanics involved [including the electrical connectors UN-plugging and re-plugging, BUT DUE to the ANALYSIS you need to do to determine whether the SOAP DISH PART or the CONTROLLER is at fault. And this ANALYSIS will probably require you to get into the DISHWASHER DOOR twice. Once to do the analysis and then again to replace whatever part you target. Being you will want to continue to use the DISHWASHER by manually dropping the soap door [or just soap] at the appropriate time in the cycle, while awaiting the new part, which means you have re-button up the door and take it apart again when the new part arrives. . Before starting, view PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the SOAP DISPENSER, but ignore THE STEPS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING THE SOAP DISPENSER.PART, at this time. The analysis starts with MANUALLY trying to activate the mechanical soap door release on the back of the mounted SOAP DISPENSER, with the soap door closed. It should take only ounces of downward pressure [towards the door hinge] on the vertical plastic piece in a channel near the center of the dispenser, to release the soap door. Next if you have access to an OHM METER {or MULTIMETER} or a DC POWER SUPPLY [to test the the activation of the door release] pull the two connectors on the SOAP DISH SOLENOID [a set pointed pliers will be helpful, as outlined in the VIDEO]. If measuring the SOLENOID's resistance it should read roughly 1800 OHMS. If using a DC POWER SUPPLY, you will probably need at least 25 volts DC to trigger the SOLENOID [NOTE I do not have a variable DC POWER SUPPLY to check it out nor do I know the voltage that the DISHWASHER uses]. Do not bother to measure the resistance of CONTROLLER's driving circuitry [the two wires having connectors], as it will read INFINITY, regardless of whether GOOD or BAD, The CONTROLLER apparently uses a RELAY on this circuit, as opposed to some kind of solid state switch. Replug the SOLENOID connectors. Re-buttoned up the DISHWASHER as shown in the VIDEO, assuming you are going to continue using it If you determine no problems in the above tests, then consider it a CONTROLLER pro0blem and you will need to order one. Otherwise you should have found indications of a SOAP DISPENSER PROBLEM. . When the replacement part arrives and you ready to install it, refer again to PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the Soap Dish Dispenser for a refresher Following the VIDEO completely, if you replacing the DISPENSER. If you are replacing the CONTROLLER, once inside the DOOR, you will need to remove around 6 individual electrical connectors [before doing ANYTHING REMOVE POWER from the DISHWASHER [as instructed in the VIDEO}. These connectors [all but any single wire connectors] are designed to be plugged only one specific way, so when re-plugging NEVER FORCE a connection, The best way to make sure you do not get confused, take a picture of all the connectors -OR- make notes on the looks and orientation of each multi-wire connector. There is one mounting screw on right side of the CONTROLLER. When installing the new CONTROLLER there are mounting EARS on the left side that are first engaged by having the CONTROLLER tilted up on the right side. Replace the mounting screw. Replugged all the connectors using whatever guide you made. Proceed to put the DOOR back together as outlined in the VIDEO.

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

I just ordered another one of the wheel rack and it was that easy. No tool required.