PDW9280L00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled off old rollers and snapped on new ones. Never easier!

Ordered most likely part...water inlet valve.

1. Turn off water supply.
2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the
dishwasher.
3. Remove hose to supply valve.
4. Take electrical plug off old valve.
5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of
the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket.
6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the
inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the
rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher.
7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the
bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and
bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose.
8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet
hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip.
9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp
with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this
time.
10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose
connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick
plate.

Attached the drain hose to the dishwasher pump and to the sink pipes and I was done.

The Lower Rack was a simple swap. The Upper Rack had a tube and rotating sprayer that had to be removed and installed on the new rack. I used a nutdriver to remove a few screws and reinstall them on the new unit. Very simple.

With the dishwasher door open, remove the screws around the inside edge of the door, then carefully separate the outer door enclosure from the door interior. Release the ribbon cable attaching the control panel to the interior connector socket. There is a hole in the top edge of the door enclosure allowing access to the underside of the control panel, push up through there to start forcing the old panel off. Unthread the ribbon cable, and scrape off any old remaining adhesive. Remove the adhesive backing paper from the new panel, thread the ribbon cable through the appropriate hole in the door enclosure, then line up and press the new panel firmly into place. Join and secure the enclosure with the screws. Done!

pulled the end caps, pulled the upper dish rack out. Installed the rear end cap on the right hand side of the inside slider for the rack. installed the bearing and slider in position. Put the upper rack back in and installed the front end caps.

went online to parts select. Looked at parts that could be leaking. Thought it was the sump. Purchased the sump and the pump connector. Almost bought the adaptor pump assembly, but it was $29.00. Parts arrived in about 2 days. Turned off water and power to dishwasher. Disconnected the copper water line. Hardest part was getting the dishwasher out of space. Once out, layed it on it's side. Parts held together with clamps. Took it apart like a puzzle. Replaced the parts, tightened the clamps. Pump connector hard to unscrew. Got a good hand grip on it and turned it loose. Sump did have a hole in it. Put everything back together. water, electric, etc. Turned it on and it was leaking. Leak coming from the adaptor pump assembly. Couldn't wait 2 more days.Found part at a local parts store for $40.00. Was able to change it by reaching underneath and not pulling dishwasher out again. All three parts needed to be changed. Dishwasher now working fine. If your leaking underneath and taking out the dishwasher change those 3 parts.

Called repairman: announced that the drain pump was gone. Did not seem right. Went to the website. Found what I was looking for. 49% of the time it was a check-valve issue; only 26% of the time was the pump the problem. Took the unit from under the counter; got it on its side; removed the drain pump. Found my first check-valve, but thediagram showed a second lower one toward the sump. Having located both and purchased two valves and and the lower holder piece, I was ready to finish the job. Quarter-inch nut driver and a screw driver and the valves were in and the drain pump re-installed. Most difficult in my case was getting the dw back into its spot and lashed down! Thanks for the good guidance!

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Watched a YouTube video on disassembly, parts replacement, and reassembly.

Simple, took five minutes, no tools, problem solved.

After receiving the replacement part from PartSelect I disconnected the dishwasher from the power supply. In my case unplugged it from the wall outlet. Using a Phillips Head screwdriver I removed all the screws holding the front panel of the dishwasher door to the rear panel of the door. There 12 are screws. The 2 screws in the middle of the door are holding two plastic wedges that clamp the rear panel to the front panel. They rotate slightly allowing their removal without much difficulty. This exposed the electrical harness from the keypad to the door. Deflecting a small retainer clip I removed the harness from the inside door panel, with extreme easiness. With the wire harness free I peeled up one corner of the old keypad and easily removed it from the door panel. Carefully threading the old keypad harness cable through the opening in the door panel I removed it. Using acetone I cleaned all the old adhesive material off the surface where the new keypad will go. Threading the new electric harness through the opening in the front door panel I reconnected the harness the rear door connector. I then peeled the paper backing off the new keypad and placed it where the original keypad had been. I matched up the screw holes replaced the screws and reconnected the power supply. And, thanks be to God, and this site, the GE PROFILE Dishwasher was back on line. I hope this is helpful to at least one other person

Simply remove broken wheels and clip on replacements. No tools are necessary for this fix and the replacement was inexpensive and easy to install. The kit worked beautifully.

Simple install- just roll it in. Fit perfect. Better design than OEM part. Perfect.