PDW7880J03SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Unscrew the old one and screw in the new one.

Our older GE dishwasher was leaking water on the floor while running. After inspecting it while running I was able to determine that the water was coming from the seal around the motors shaft where it entered the pump. I then looked up the washers model number and ordered the impeller shaft seal kit. To my suprise the kit arrived the very next day! After disconnecting the power and water supplies from the dishwasher , I then removed it from the cabinet base and turned it over to gain easy access to the bottom. Using nothing more than a nut driver, adjustable wrench and a pair of pliers I was able to loosen the two compression clamps and two hose clamps that hold the pump to the bottom of the washers tub. I then removed the entire pump and took it to my work bench for the rest of the repair. Removing the plastic impeller strainer was the toughest part.. Lacking the proper spanner wrench, I had no tool that would lock onto the raised tabs to turn it loose with. I was able to position the tabs in the jaws of my workbench vise and giving the entire pump a little twist, It broke free and I was then able to unscrew the rest of the way it by hand.. The old dried up detergent made for a good adhesive, and after removal I cleaned the area completely so the new strainer would thread in easy. I installed the new parts in the kit as per the supplied instructions and re-installed the pump housing back on the dishwasher and put it all back in place. After running it several times not a drip was to be seen, and I was very pleased with the whole process. With the shipping it cost me just $25.00, and it saved me a expensive service call or maybe even the cost of buying a new machine. I would say that overall it was a easy repair but lacking the right tools, you may have some trouble removing the pumps plastic strainer screen as I did. I would highly recommend PartsSelect to anyone, and the entire experience was a good one for me.

followed the video step by step which was very well expalined and was able to complete the install

Ordered most likely part...water inlet valve.

1. Turn off water supply.
2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the
dishwasher.
3. Remove hose to supply valve.
4. Take electrical plug off old valve.
5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of
the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket.
6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the
inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the
rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher.
7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the
bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and
bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose.
8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet
hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip.
9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp
with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this
time.
10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose
connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick
plate.

Watched online video, repaired myself in under 10 minutes.
Easy fix with video instructions

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

Removed the unit from under counter and placed it with the door side down. Removed clamps/bands from the outlets on the sump and removed screws that attached sump to dishwasher tub. Reversed the process with the new sump and positioned the dishwasher unt=der the cabinet. Next step was to remove the arm and cover parts to the sump, then removed the old upper neck portion that stuck to a strainer. Then aligned the strainer to connect to the small neck of the sump and replaced items in the order from which they were removed.

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

Ordered a new tub gasket and, although the gasket went on backorder for two weeks, the repair itself was extremely easy requiring no tools at all!

Put new basket in, threw old one away

remove water connection; shut off circuit breaker ; follow the suplied directions; reassemble washer . job done - leak gone. Wife happy.

Called repairman: announced that the drain pump was gone. Did not seem right. Went to the website. Found what I was looking for. 49% of the time it was a check-valve issue; only 26% of the time was the pump the problem. Took the unit from under the counter; got it on its side; removed the drain pump. Found my first check-valve, but thediagram showed a second lower one toward the sump. Having located both and purchased two valves and and the lower holder piece, I was ready to finish the job. Quarter-inch nut driver and a screw driver and the valves were in and the drain pump re-installed. Most difficult in my case was getting the dw back into its spot and lashed down! Thanks for the good guidance!

First removed the eight philips head screws that hold the outside bottom door cover, to get access to the module. Then removed the two wires and the ten screws holding the module in place. Put the new module back in, reconnected the wires, and re-tighten everything. Did not have to use the bracket and cap.

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.