PDW7712K02SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

We considered buying a new lower rack for the dishwasher which we were told was a new dishwasher when we took over the house. The wheels were constantly falling off when sliding out the tray. They wobbled as well. With the weight of dishes in the rack and malfunctioning wheels, it was a disaster! We found your site on the internet and instead of a new rack we decided to order a whole new set of 8 wheels and axle roller studs. Installation was easy. It's like having a new dishwasher! Tray rolls in/out effortlessly. Great solution for the prices, fast delivery. Everybody is happy! Thanks.

The seal slides out to the side, but the diswasher had to be pulled out from the counter and the entire door had to be taken apart to do this because the hinge was in the way. In taking apart the door, we opened the front panel by taking out the screws along the sides and disconnected the computer connections. After loosening the hinge, we were able to slide the old seal out and the new seal in. When putting the door back together, it was difficult to reconnect the computer connections while holding up the door front, as these ribbon wires were quite short. We did get it back together and working except that the connection to the display light now doesn't work because it probably became disconnected as we put together the door. Also, the door now is not completely level when open making the bottom tray slide in. This is probably because we got the springs too tight. These things can be fixed, but will wait for another day.

When I first tried to fix the handle I could not figure out where the spring went. I went back online and looked at the diagram of the dishwasher on this site and learned where it went. Once I knew where every piece went it only took me about 5 minutes to put it back in and another 5 minutes to screw the cover back on. I am a newer homeowner and want to be able to do minor fixes. This was my first one and was very happy that I was able to do it on my own.

The gaskets arrived in a few days after my order. The tub seal was easy to change and tool only a few minutes with no tools. After I watched a video on the GE website I pulled out the old gasket, wiped out the slot, centered the new gasket at the top, pushed it in the slot to each corner.Then I pulled the end to the end of the track and pushed it in the full side from the bottom up. repeated on the other side.The lower gasket was harder and took about 40 minutes. I took eh door apart but did not need to it could be done with a mirror. Pull the old one out from one side. Don't be afraid of tearing it but get it all out. The new one will snap into the slot if you use a mirror to look in the door and see.

I just moved into a house and the previous owner did not have the dishwasher mounted to the granite counter top. I purchased the mounting kit and installed to the sides of the dishwasher into predrilled holes and into the sides of the cabinets. It was easy and the dishwasher is now secure.

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.

First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

Removed original silverware basket from dishwasher rack. Replaced it with new silverware basket. Placed original silverware basket in recycle bin (plastic content). So easy, even my 24 year old son could do it!

Everything snapped on quite easily. I was releaved to not have to replace "everything."

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.