If your dishwasher door will not close, is noisy when operating, or the dishes are not cleaning properly, you might need to replace one or more of the wheels. Each wheel and axle are made of plastic a...
This water inlet valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or left corner. The attaching solenoid on the valve open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
The lower spray arm is mounted to the bottom of your dishwasher tub, and it rotates and sprays water to clean the dishes in the lower dish rack. This spray arm is made of gray plastic, and is approxim...
The circulation pump adapter, or pump adapter assembly connects the circulation pump to the tub of your dishwasher. If your dishwasher is leaking around this adapter, check the connection to ensure ev...
The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In ...
This is a handle actuator for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. The handle actuator is found in the control panel, and it releases the door latch when you lift th...
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Paul
July 16, 2021
I watched your vidio on how to replace the short bottom door seal. My model front panel goes all the way to the top of the door and when i got it removed i discovered that the 4 screws to remove to allow me to lift up the bottom of the panel to slide the seal over the hinge are not on this model. Do i have to do something else to allow me to remove the seal ?
For model number PDW7300J15BB
Hi Paul,
Thank you for your question. Here are some instructions that a customer posted on our website that may help you install the bottom door gasket, "Replacing the DOOR BOTTOM SHORT SEAL. This repair is not technically difficult, but is physically difficult. Without complete removal of the door, nothing needs to be or can be taken apart to do this replacement. I recommend removal of the lower basket, the upper basket and the wash arm before beginning. A drop light inside the tub is helpful. Using pliers or vise-grips grab the old seal and bend up and down then back and forth until it will slide all the way to one side. Once to one side use pliers to bent towards the back until its snap seal (observe new seal) realeases and you can carefully continue by hand to remove the seal the rest of the way across the bottom of the door. Observe how the old seal came out and which side was UP. With the new seal in hand, gently work the snap seal open slightly (this will help to get it back in place). With a flashlight and inspection mirror, check where the new seal will attach to (and clean if necessary). Center the new seal with the correct side up and work from one end. You may need pliers to push in the new seal, but be very careful not to damage the new bottom seal soft part. When it snaps in place you are done." We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.
The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door. Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them. Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them. Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place. Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work. Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly. Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy. Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand. Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
