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PDT760SSFSS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PDT760SSFSS
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The broiler element wouldn't work.
After I ordered a new element unit, I read the "do it yourself" review on the page. I took the back off of the range and found the broken wire. I found that I had the same problem with the wiring, and that maybe the element was not the problem. I went to Lowe's and purchased a female spade connector, because no one would sell me one through the parts department. All I did was cut off the wire at the end of the burned section, stripped back about 1/2 inch of the wire and put on the new spade connector. I took off the origonal connector/crimp, and slipped on the new one. (You do have to make sure that the wiring doesn't touch the range back) The element was not the problem, so the origonal one still works fine. I may keep the element I ordered, just to have it if this one goes out. I didn't even need to remove the screws from the element inside the oven. It can all be done from the back of the range.
Parts Used:
BROIL ELEMENT
  • Lajuanna from O'Fallon, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer would not spin or drain
I went to You tube sight to see how I can remove front of washer so I could inspect inside and see if the problem was visible. A butter knife easily released the tabs that hold the front of washer on. My wife in the mean time found a you tube video that showed the same problem and I ordered the part right away. It showed just two screws and a plug that had to be removed. I always buy my parts from part-select because the quality and speedy delivery and tracking is great! This was an easy fix!
Parts Used:
Lid Lock & Switch Assembly
  • Randy from CANTON, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer handle broke off
once the part arrived, it was a perfect fit and just snapped on! DONE!
Parts Used:
Door Handle
  • TERESA from IRONDALE, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Plastic handle on dryer snapped off.
Replacement handle easily snapped into dryer door. No skill or tool needed,.
Parts Used:
Door Handle
  • William from Carol Stream, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
Parts Used:
Haliant Element - 12 Inch
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Interior burner of right front dual burner was out
Initially replaced the switch on the range--a simple job--pull the wires one by one and place them on the new switch. This did not resolve the problem, which meant that it was the burner, not the switch. I left the new switch in place and ordered a new burner. This, too, was simple, but involved creating a detailed drawing of the switch connectors rather than photos, which, because of the crossing of similarly colored wires, might have been confusing. The only hitch was that the burner is attached to the top by indented clips that fit into pegs at numbered locations on the burner. The clips were very difficult to open and situate, but once done (and this step was the only one where a second person was required) the top was closed and screwed back in place (two screws) and it worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
Haliant Element - 12 Inch
  • MARK from PHOENIXVILLE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Inside burner did not heat
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
Parts Used:
Haliant Element - 12 Inch
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
Parts Used:
Terminal Block Kit
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Tub seal leaking, grinding noise on spin.
Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.
Parts Used:
Hub Nut
  • Lee from GRANDVILLE, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broiler not working
Turned off electricity. Removed two screws that held the element in back of oven. Removed the two screws that held it up to top of oven. Disconnected the two wires that held it in the rear of the oven. Removed it from the top support. Replaced the old element with the new in the support. plugged it it, replaced all four screws. Turned on the electricity and turned on the oven-it worked!
Parts Used:
BROIL ELEMENT
  • Teresa M from denver, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the PDT760SSFSS
31 - 45 of 148