PDF22MFSW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

took out shelves and removed the back plate my removing 2 screws with a nutdriver.removed the old defrost timer and defrost heater which was really easy.then installed the new ones.the video i watched on the website was really helpfull.

replaced lower pan frame; removed center guide and shutter slides from old frame put on new frame...very pleased however, glass top does not fit tightly / correctly in frame.

It was fairly easy--disconnect the water supply, remove a bunch of screws on the lower back panel, screws from the clips that hold the tubes close to the back and screws that attach the water filter inside the fridge and disconnect the tubing from the water supply to ice maker. Pull the entire feed (tubes and all) through from the inside and un-clip from the water filter housing. I had to cut the foam carefully so that I could reuse it (it helps to seal the hole that the tubing fits through and there was not included with the part). Clip in the new part, thread the tubes back through, reconnect the water supply and ice maker feed. Turn the water back on and check for leaks. Easy!

Detached the old part from the refrigerator and disconnected the low voltage quick connect. Also disconnected the water line to the Ice Maker. Reinstalled the new part in the order it was disconnected and re attached the water line feed to the valve threaded connection. Turned water on and no problems.

The part had cracked before so I was experienced. You need to save all pieces. There's a metal support bar that needs to be taken out of the old one and reinserted. The plastic slides clip in okay but are fragile. Just be careful. I was thankful that the part was under one year warranty. It was replaced and I only had to pay for shipping. Cusomer service is amazing. Thank you

I monitored the ice maker after it stopped working and noticed it was not filling with water. I loosened the water feed hose to the single valve outlet and the water feed was fine. However, the single valve outlet never activated to turn on the water feed. I disconnected the waterfeed and electrical connection from the single valve outlet and removed it. Replaced it with the new one, reconnected the water feed valve and electrical connection....allowed the ice maker to cycle and it started filling the ice maker with water right away. The unit is functioning fine now. Thanks to Select parts for filling my parts order fast and accurately. Regards.....E. Tew

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Your online instructions were easy to understand and follow. I replaced the outlet valve which took about 20 min. Then I had to dissasemble and remove icemaker to de-ice inlet tube and back wall of frezzer to defrost cooling fins. All to gether it took me about 1hr / 40 min. Frezzer now works just like new. Thanks for making it affordable and easy. Curt

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

I ordered the valve, which came only a day later. Mine is really simple because it only has one water line and one electrical plug in. I do not have a separate water filter. First, I unplugged the refrigerator and shut off the water supply. I unscrewed the cardboard piece from the lower part of the back of the fridge and freed the valve. I pulled out the top water tube that goes from the valve to the top of the fridge, that connects into the back of the ice maker. That tube was empty and dry - I blew through it to make sure that it was unobstructed, and it was. No water was getting to that tube at all. I pulled out the plugs from the valve, and unscrewed the water line from the valve and let that drain in the bucket. I had drained as much water in the lines as I could by flushing a toilet and turning on the sink until it seemed the water supply that was left in the pipes was low. Then I just did the reverse putting together everything with the new valve. I screwed back in the water line that runs from the wall to the fridge. I pushed in the water hose line into the valve until it was all the way in. It was uneven and frayed at the end of that thin hose line, so I cut it very straight across the bottom so it would be entirely flush when it was pushed all the way into the valve. Then I inserted the plug back into the new valve. I put everything back in place, plugged in the fridge and turned on the water supply. I had left the fridge out off the wall so I could check for any leaking. I left it overnight and by morning I had ice! It was so easy. My only difficulty was pulling out the thin water hose from the valve. I did not realize that you can push down on the circular rim and the hose just slips out. I think I saved a lot of money.

I was missing a part. The ice maker bin. I found it from the site with no hassle.I just called the customer servoce number on the site and ordered with the rep. My part was at my door step in no time. I love that part anout it.

Googled the problem, came across this site where I learned what needed to be done to fix. Checked the part price, looked just for couriosity at the price from GE, it was WAY more expensive. Ordered the part, it arrived super fast, and shipping was next to nothing. The part came in, I replaced it. I made my husband so proud!!!

Pressed the button, took out the old, put in the new. :)

turn off ice maker Shut off supply to fridge unplugged fridge unhooked water supply line unplugged harness plug to valve.