Models > PB970SM1SS

PB970SM1SS General Electric Range - Overview

Sections of the PB970SM1SS

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Manuals & Care Guides for PB970SM1SS

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Foot - Leveller – Part Number: WB02X10521
Foot - Leveller
PartSelect #: PS223802
Manufacturer #: WB02X10521
Sold individually.
$29.88
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Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB23T10015
Oven Sensor
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PartSelect #: PS236398
Manufacturer #: WB23T10015
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$59.44
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Temperature Sensor – Part Number: WB21X22134
Temperature Sensor
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS10059162
Manufacturer #: WB21X22134
This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity.
$49.07
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Knob – Part Number: WB03T10266
Knob
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS1480774
Manufacturer #: WB03T10266
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$61.07
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Infinite Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10119
Infinite Control Switch
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS1016429
Manufacturer #: WB24T10119
$171.21
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Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch – Part Number: WB30T10099
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
PartSelect #: PS1016539
Manufacturer #: WB30T10099
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
$201.60
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Door Gasket – Part Number: WB04T10050
Door Gasket
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PartSelect #: PS1019820
Manufacturer #: WB04T10050
This oven door gasket prevents heat from escaping the oven cavity when in use.
$67.30
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Halogen Lamp - 35 Watt – Part Number: WB08T10023
Halogen Lamp - 35 Watt
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS230456
Manufacturer #: WB08T10023
This halogen lamp bulb is a genuine OEM replacement part for your oven. If the light has burned out in your oven, replace it with this part. This is a 35 watt bulb. Replacing this bulb is fairly easy ...
$49.32
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Dual Burner Control Switch – Part Number: WB24T10063
Dual Burner Control Switch
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PartSelect #: PS236785
Manufacturer #: WB24T10063
This switch controls the dual burner.
$220.64
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Window Pack Assembly – Part Number: WB56T10105
Window Pack Assembly
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(3)
PartSelect #: PS773379
Manufacturer #: WB56T10105
$537.08
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Element Spring – Part Number: WB09T10002
Element Spring
PartSelect #: PS230622
Manufacturer #: WB09T10002
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$10.28
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Screw – Part Number: WB1X1130
Screw
PartSelect #: PS234427
Manufacturer #: WB1X1130
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$8.25
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Questions And Answers for PB970SM1SS

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John
February 24, 2022
The bottom element (bake element) in the upper oven does not heat. I have replaced the temperature sensor and the element and it still does not work. I assume that just leaves a control problem, but what part would it be? Any other possibilities?
For model number PB970SM1SS
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Hello John, thank you for writing. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is Upper Relay Board PS2351822. We hope to hear from you soon.

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Common Symptoms of the PB970SM1SS

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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven would go in to a F2 Error
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
143 of 206 people found this instruction helpful.
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Large burner on dual element burned out
This was really easy, and pretty with no problems or issues It took me longer to write this than to do the actual installation. I used a digital camera to help me remember where things were, but a pen/paper works fine. Here's what I did:

1. Turn off the breaker for the cooktop.

2. Remove (2) 1/4" hex screws directly under cooktop. You may need to open oven door to reveal them.

2. Prop up cooktop. I used the box the replacement element came in.

3. The element is held in place with (3) brackets held in by a #2 philips screw each. Mark the location of each of the brackets. There are numbers on the element to help you do this.

4. Write down where each of the wires connects to the element. There's only a few of them, but I tend to forget that stuff. The wires have female spade-type connectors that connect to the male ends on the element.

5. Using a needle-nose or small pliers wiggle each wire off the element. Grab the wires by the end of the female connector when you do this. I found it helpful to use a small flat screwdriver to help pry them off. Mine were on pretty tight, so expect this to take a few mins. If you have problems getting to the wires, remove the brackets (next step) first and come back to this one. I let the element hang from the wires without any problems, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

6. Remove each of the screws with a #2 philips screwdriver. Support the element with your hand and gently pull each bracket away from the element. Once they're all gone, the element should just come out. I took a look at my old element and saw that the large burner wires were melted in a couple places, so it was definitely broken.

7. If necessary, clean the underside of the cooktop surface with a clean papertowel. There was a little dust from the old element on mine.

8. Connect the new element and test to make sure it works by turning on the breaker and turning on the burner for a second or two. Note: This will make the top of the element hot for some time, so test it and go away for a few mins. If it works OK, proceed. If not, disconnect and figure out what else may be wrong.

9. Using the old element, make copies of the marks you made for the bracket locations onto the new element. You'll have to punch through the insulation when re-attaching the screws.

10. Re-wire the new element, if necessary and re-attach the brackets over the marks you made. This may be a pretty tight fit because the new element was thicker than the old on mine. I opened up the brackets a bit to make it not so hard to re-attach. Hook the brackets on and squeeze them over the element. The holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes drilled into the bottom of the element. If they don't, spin the element around (or detach and re-attach the brackets) till they do.

11. Screw in the (3) screws over the brackets pushing them through the insulation on the element.

12. Close the cooktop and reattach the hex screws under it (1/4" hex).

13. Turn on the breaker and test again.

Thats it, works great now. Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Scot from Oakland, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
101 of 114 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven was not coming up to temperature
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Sean from Highlands Ranch, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
55 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
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