PB970KM1CC General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was very easy to do. Our oven was showing the F2 error code, which is associated with an over-temperature fault. Upon inspection, the oven was warm, but definitely not beyond the temperature threshold. I researched the issue and found this temperature sensor.
Swapping the sensor was extremely easy. You take off the back panel of the oven, unhook a single wiring harness, and undo some bolts inside the oven, which allows you to pull off the old sensor. Simply hook up the new sensor to the harness, pull everything back through, replace the fasteners, and you're good to go.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

un plugged the electric cord. Took back panel off range.
disconnected the element wires. Opened the range door removed the rack, and removed the two screws holding the the bake unit in place and removed the old element. Installed the new element in reverse order above.
After reconnecting the power supply cord turned the range on and let it heat up to remove the newness order off the new element.
tools needed 1/4 inch nut driver or 1/4 inch socket.

I picked the least expensive and most likely issue with our oven that was not indicating a correct oven temperature. I am sure with a 15+ year appliance that the circuitry is on its way out but wanted to give this a try to avoid a new appliance purchase. Oven pre-heat setting takes much longer to finish with the age of the oven. However, after the new sensor the oven will maintain a more even temperature for the cycle.

Removal of the sensor from the inside of the oven is a bit awkward since it is located between the broiler elements at the back but a nut driver was the correct tool and worked fine. A bit stuck with the heating of the connection but pretty simple to replace. Must remove the back first to uncouple the connector. Simplest part of the repair.

At best a temporary fix for a an appliance this old.

My cooktop is a stand alone unit mounted in a counter top not associated with an oven.
-Removed power to the cook top. Breaker off.
-Lifted the cook top straight up from the counter top and placed two 24 inch board strips to support it above the counter top. This was very easy by pushing up from the bottom of the cook top. This is a two person job preferably.
-Removed the six phillip screws below the glass surface edge. 3 in the front, three in the back.
-Remove knobs and remove the glass top by lifting straight up.
-Record the wire positions on the element on paper and remove the connections.
-The element is mounted on two spring loaded studs that have spring clips as a retainer. Remove the two clips by pulling straight up with a plier or needlenose.
-The replacement element did not come equipped with the two mounting ears that the original had. I removed the two ears from the defective element and installed them on the new element. Very easy. Two phillips screws. The elements have perferations in the correct areas to accommodate this.
-Placed the new element in position and reinstalled the spring clips.
-Install the wiring terminals in the correct positions.
-Reinstalled the glass surface and the six phillips screws. Reinstall the knobs.
-Lower the cook top back into its counter top position.
-Return power to the cook top.
-Installation complete. Very simple!

Very easy to remove the parts and to reassemble

It was very easy. First turn off the power. Remove two screws to pick up the hood then remove two screws holding the element. Tag the wires with number. Unplug the old burner attach the wires to new burner. Attach two screws with spring to hold the burner, put the hood down and put the screws holding the top hood.

Pulled out the range from the wall and unplugged it. (A good time to clean up the cabinet sides & floor.) Found the 2 screws under the cooktop by opening the oven door. Removed the screws and raised the cooktop -- it's hinged in the back. Propped up the cooktop with a spare piece of lumber. (I would have expected to find a fold-out rod to prop it up -- a suggestion to GE.) Noted the positions of the 4 spade lug connectors and removed them gently with a pair of needlenose pliers. Removed the 2 screws from the clips holding the element in place & removed the element. Installation was the exact reverse: clips, spade lugs, front screws. (Then I removed the blue masking tape I had put over the burner knob so we wouldn't try to use the burner while I was waiting for the part to arrive.) Plugged it in & pushed it back in place. Good to go! 30 minutes including the surprise cleanup.

Took the oven door off and removed the inner door panel, put new glass assembly part in and reassembled. The hard part was getting the door hinges locked back into place.

I pulled out the range from the wall unplugged it from the wall then i opened the oven door and removed the two small screws on the front off the range and lifted the glass top and supported it with a 1/2" X 18inc wooden dowel, then i removed the two burner retaining screws with a small Phillips screw driver and removed the wires from the burner,
then i replaced the burner with the new one and reconnected the wires and placed the burner in to the two retaining clips and then tightened the two screws then i removed the wooden dowel and installed the two screws on the front bottom side on the range then i plugged in the range in and tested the burner then put the range back against the wall.

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into the oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

I went online and ordered the part after reading other people's repair experiences, confident that I could do it because the part was quite pricey. First, be sure you're circuit breaker to your range is off. Next, open the oven door and locate and remove two screws with a socket, that are just under the top surface which will allow you to lift up the glass top which is actually hinged...no need to pull the range out. Securely prop up the glass surface area and the burners are exposed. With a marker, mark where each color wire goes on the burner you are going to remove and also mark where the two holding brackets are. This way you can reference the locations to connect to the new one. Carefully remove the wires and brackets and install new burner with brackets and connections. Close up the top, replace two screws, turn on breaker, and if there were no other faulty components,it'll work great. P.S Be gentle getting the very snug wires off. Good Luck

Removed the two screws that hold the range top down. Lifted up yhe range top and propped with a stick. Proceeded to mark the wires connected to the old burner so that the new one would be connected correctly. Removed the wires and then the two brackets that hold the burner in place. Removed the old burner and installed the new one. Connected the wires and resecured top to base. Turned on the current and it worked beautifully.