P2S975WEM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

there were no grate pads so it was easy to add them.

I had to drill the hole to a larger size to enable the foot to fit.

remove old burner, put new in place

I unscrewed the base where the electrode was attached to detached the electrode detached the wire to the electrode inserted new electrode with holding spring and clamp attached wire to electrode.
I then put the base back on top and screwed in the two screws assembled the remaining parts and turned on the stove unit and it worked I am very happy.

Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.

Nothing technical.

As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!

Replaced it

Used scribe to remove grate foot plug still in grate inserted new foot.

Start by removing all screws 3 for each burner total of 15 t-15 bit is required then proceed to remove spark igniters 5 total slight pull next step would be to slide a screwdriver under top left and right side to remove top shelf. There you will have access to the parts you need to replace. When done just reverse installation instructions to complete

First remove the screws around the inside perimeter of the door. These require a special hex driver. Take off the inside plastic liner of door.
Peal off the old Insulation Foam Strip and replace it with the new strip in the same location. Make sure the wires are off to the right side. Replace the door plastic liner. Done. The Insulation Foam Strip really acts more like a loose gasket to keep spashing from creeping under the door and drippin out on the floor.

Turned off the circuit breaker. Removed 5 screws. Unplugged the heating element and then plugged in the new one and replaced the 5 screws. Very simple.

I was attempting to replace the broiler element on the oven, but I discovered that the wiring may be the actual problem. I suggest before you order parts for a broiler repair, that you test the wires to ensure that you have continuity. I will have to trace the wires back to the source (the other element works fine) and see if I can find the problem with the current. I will keep the broiler element I ordered until I can confirm that the old element works.

Could not have been simpler. Burner head dropped into place and was held in place by gravity. Not possible for part to go in incorrectly.

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!