Models > NVL333EY0WW

NVL333EY0WW Hotpoint Dryer - Overview

Sections of the NVL333EY0WW

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Manuals & Care Guides for NVL333EY0WW

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Rotary Start Switch – Part Number: WE4X881
Rotary Start Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS268305
Manufacturer #: WE4X881
This part is used to start the dryer once you have selected a setting on the timer.
$102.11
  Special Order
Timer Knob – Part Number: WE1X1267
Timer Knob
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS266958
Manufacturer #: WE1X1267
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft. Sold individually.
$33.12
  Special Order
Rear Bearing – Part Number: WE3X70
Rear Bearing
PartSelect #: PS267858
Manufacturer #: WE3X70
Bearing Only. This part helps your appliance run as quietly as possible.
$59.10
  Special Order
Drum Belt – Part Number: WE12X10009
Drum Belt
PartSelect #: PS959964
Manufacturer #: WE12X10009
Used to turn the drum.
$140.29
  Special Order
Top Drum Glide Kit – Part Number: WE03X10001
Top Drum Glide Kit
PartSelect #: PS264864
Manufacturer #: WE03X10001
This top drum glide kit comes with the adhesive.
$186.91
  Special Order
Rear Bearing Shaft Support – Part Number: WE13X10011
Rear Bearing Shaft Support
PartSelect #: PS265828
Manufacturer #: WE13X10011
$130.67
  Special Order
Lower Felt Seal – Part Number: WE9X105
Lower Felt Seal
PartSelect #: PS268338
Manufacturer #: WE9X105
$48.04
  Special Order
Handle – Part Number: WE01X10013
Handle
PartSelect #: PS264332
Manufacturer #: WE01X10013
Screws are not included. Handle only.
  No Longer Available
Control Thermostat – Part Number: WE04X10028
Control Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS265265
Manufacturer #: WE04X10028
This thermostat controls the internal drying temperature. Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermos...
$91.43
  Special Order
STRIKE DOOR – Part Number: WE1X1158
STRIKE DOOR
PartSelect #: PS266861
Manufacturer #: WE1X1158
$62.82
  Special Order
IDLER ARM Assembly W/PULLEY – Part Number: WE01X10218
IDLER ARM Assembly W/PULLEY
PartSelect #: PS1020688
Manufacturer #: WE01X10218
  No Longer Available
CLIP GUIDE – Part Number: WE2X361
CLIP GUIDE
PartSelect #: PS267773
Manufacturer #: WE2X361
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for NVL333EY0WW

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Common Symptoms of the NVL333EY0WW

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Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Broken Knob Post
First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Jaren from Lemoore, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
122 of 142 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud rhythmic squeaking
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.

Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.

Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.

So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.

Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)

Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.

Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.

Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.

Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.

OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...

Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Rear Bearing
  • Mark from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Dryer would not start
The switch made a humming sound when I turned it so I thought that might be the problem. Using the instructions on this Web site I took the top panel of the dryer off (after unplugging it), unplugged two wires leading from the switch (needed pliers for this), and removed the switch unit by rotating it counterclockwise (when behind it).
The replacement part came in two days. The installation went a lot quicker-maybe ten minutes.
Parts Used:
Rotary Start Switch
  • Ray from Kingwood, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
33 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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