NAV5800AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

Needed a medium extension and a rachet a screw driver and a 13mm socket. I used a short screw driver and inserted in it the softer container and lifted it strait up to get the softner container out of the way. I used the medium extension to reach in the auger and loosen the small bolt holding the auger on the machine. Pulled it up and out. Reversed the above procedure and it was set to go. Total time about 8 to 10 minutes. Thank for all the help Kudos to all including Susan W.

Removed old agitator, and installed new one. Very easy.

Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

The replacement was very easy, just one bolt and RR was a snap. However, the first part that came was defective and I called the 800 number, spoke to the rep and the part came the next day. Excellent customer service, and would do business again

it was really easy to gain access to the valve, but the part was just a little different then the original. I had to lengthen one wire to make the new valve work. This did take care of the problem when completed.

removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

Needed part. Ordered Part from PartSelect Friday afternoon and figured I'd get it the following week. No big deal. Part arrived at my doorstep next morning before noon. UNBELIEVABLE SERVICE. Not requested, but it was there. So I fixed the machine as soon as I got it. I wish every company had this kind of service. I've already told my friends. It just can't get any easier than this.

To replace the belt:
First, unplug the appliance. No sense in poking and getting zapped.
Remove any water from the tub, if there is some, by running the washer through the end of the rinse cycle. This is the point of extracting water through the water pump.
Remove the bottom, front access panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom and sliding the panel down and out. It is held in place by metal clips at the top. So, it has to "unsnap" at the top.
Next, remove (by pulling out and up to disengage its hook) the left front stabilizer spring from the bottom of the outer tub. Pry it out with a screwdriver blade under the hook enough to release it from its hole in the frame. Once released, slide the hook along the lip of the frame towards the back of the washer and out of the way. Makes it easier to get back in if it is still stretched some. This allows it to be out of the way in order to remove the motor.
Disconnect the hoses attached to the discharge pump. Be sure to have a couple of towels handy for any water left in the lines. Place the towels directly under the hoses before disconnecting. Set the hoses to the side of the washer cabinet.
Loosen and remove the back (when looking at the motor from the front access) two bolts holding the motor support frame to the frame supporting the transmission.
Next, locate and remove the top two bolts holding the motor frame to the tub frame. Be sure to support the motor as the last bolt is removed so that it does not fall down.
Tilt the motor slightly to the left. Locate the wiring harness at the top left side of the motor. There is a plastic clip in the middle and on top of the wiring harness. Push down on the clip as you grasp the harness. This will release the clip's grip at the back of the harness and allow you to pull it out. Set the harness back behind one of the nearby tension springs to keep it out of the way.
Once the harness and bolts are removed, tilt the bottom of the motor towards you and pull down and out to clear the outer tub frame.
With the motor out, fiip it over and locate the three screws holding the pump in place. Using a #25 torx head screwdriver, remove the screws. The pump will now separate from motor. Visually check that the pump does not have an obstruction. Manual check by spinning the pump by hand. It should move freely.
Before installing the spin belt, clean the motor pulley of any residue.
Remove and replace the idler arm spring. Leave the spring attached to the arm only. Do not reattach it to its anchor point on the motor frame.
Install the spin belt, making sure that the belt is on either side of the pump's rear leg. (Rear leg being the leg 90 degrees counterclockwise to the pump outlet port.) Be sure that the idler arm pulley is able to apply pressure to the belt.
Reverse steps to put the pump, motor and springs back in place. Be sure to plug in the wiring harness before the motor is place back into position.
Tip: Leave the idler spring off until after the spin pulley is wound onto the helix pulley. You can reach around the motor from the right side and grasp the pulley. Spinning it slowly as you feed the belt will make it easier to get it back on.
Last, plug in the machine and give a Tim Allen ARH, ARH, ARH, Ugh?

pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.

I first took the fabric softener dispenser off and used
a ratchet wrench to take the nut off. I then removed
the agitator, put the new one on and reversed the process. It was extremely easy!

I had some sweaking and then burning followed. I came to find the belt had burnt and stopped my washer from working. Ordered a belt and replaced. Washer worked for one week. Squeaking and burning again. Belt was still intact, thank goodness. Beleive it is another pulley part for the washer. Might order another part. Overall the fix was good, but had another issue.

Removed back cover of control panel. Unplugged old timer and installed new. I figure I saved a few hundred $ in service calls. My compliments for the speedy response...will use you again if the need arises.
Thanx
Fred

Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!