MMV5000BDC Maytag Microwave - Instructions
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no heat
I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!
Parts Used:
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Lisa from PARADISE, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
28 of 28 people
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No Power to Microwave
After determined the problem on one of the websites...I received the part I needed... removed the control panel and installed the new main fuse In about 15 mins!
Parts Used:
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John from Palos Hills, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
42 of 89 people
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burnt out bulb
took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks
Parts Used:
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THOMAS from STOW, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
27 of 62 people
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Microwave turntable would not turn
Turned off circuit breaker to microwave. (Built-In microwave). Unscrewed four screws at bottom panel of microwave to expose electrical wires/plastic plug to existing microwave motor.
Disconnected plastic plug/clips to motor and microwave lights(to allow entire bottom panel to drop down fully from back hinges). Unscrewed mounting screw for motor and removed old motor. Replaced motor and screwed mounting screw back in. Re-attached electrical connections for motor and lights. Closed panel and screwed bottom panel back on. Turned circuit breaker back on. 15-20 minutes start to finish.
Disconnected plastic plug/clips to motor and microwave lights(to allow entire bottom panel to drop down fully from back hinges). Unscrewed mounting screw for motor and removed old motor. Replaced motor and screwed mounting screw back in. Re-attached electrical connections for motor and lights. Closed panel and screwed bottom panel back on. Turned circuit breaker back on. 15-20 minutes start to finish.
Parts Used:
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Frederick from Scottsdale, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 9 people
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Turntable wheel broke off
Just replaced it with the part that was sent -- no physical tools used.
The part was sent when promised and arrived promptly. I would recommend this company for part replacements.
The part was sent when promised and arrived promptly. I would recommend this company for part replacements.
Parts Used:
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R. from Hudson, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
11 of 16 people
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light blew out
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KELVIN from SOUTHFIELD, MI
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
7 of 9 people
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our glass carousel broke right in half, after a gradual crack developed.
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Doe from Madison, CT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 9 people
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No heat
Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Parts Used:
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John from SANTA CLARA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Microwave did not work; no clock, etc. 120VAC at duplex outlet OK. Thought there must be an internal in line fuse or reset.
Unplug microwave! It's NOT necessary to remove microwave from above stove. Removed two Philips head screws on top front of unit to remove front grille. Removed one screw to remove control panel, letting it hang down. Found inline fuse in cabinet where line cord wires come in. Pulled out blown fuse with thumb and forefinger. Snapped in new fuse, replaced control panel and grille with the three screws. Plugged in the microwave. -Worked great! Good opportunity while grille was off to clean it and replace the charcoal filter inside the cabinet.
Parts Used:
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Lisa from DURHAM, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
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Power Went Completely Out
The power on the microwave went completely out when I went to use it, but there was no power failure for the house or neighborhood. We removed the microwave from above the oven. Took out the screws on the sides and back of the microwave and slid the top back. The line fuse was located on top unobstructed, NOT behind the button panel like some microwave models. As the appliance is over 20 years old the line fuse was quite old. It was really hard to pry it out of its holder and actually broke. I used a vacuum to suck up the dust and glass and it was easier to get out the ends once the middle broke. Popped the new line fuse in, slid the top back on, put in the screws and put the microwave back in its compartment above the stove. Good as new!! We were about to spend money on a new microwave, but thankfully I came across this site. So happy I did!!
This repair was really easy. The part that took the most time was taking it down from it's compartment above the oven and putting it back up there once repaired.
This repair was really easy. The part that took the most time was taking it down from it's compartment above the oven and putting it back up there once repaired.
Parts Used:
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Brittney from LUFKIN, TX
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Microwave oven ran but stopped heating
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
Parts Used:
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Forrest from Eugene, OR
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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microwave not heating
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
Parts Used:
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Mark from GREENSBURG, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
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Needed to replaced the glass carousel Tray
The replacement would have been easy - remove the glass tray and put the new one in,
Parts Used:
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Carlene from Portland, ME
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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old wheels wore out
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Lateshia from Campbellsville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
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Replace Glass Cooking Tray
The circular glass tray for my mother's microwave was accidentally broken. Fortunately, PartSelect made it easy to locate and to order a replacement.
As for the repair, I opened the door and put it in. The work was done faster than it took me to type this email.
As for the repair, I opened the door and put it in. The work was done faster than it took me to type this email.
Parts Used:
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Allen from West Valley CIty, UT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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