MLE23PDAYQ Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Replaced damaged parts and recommended parts normally causing the problem. Dryer is working again like new. I expended $112 rather than $600 for a new equipment. Good deal!

Took off front. Removed door. Removed drum support. Removed drum and belt. Made sure motor was correct size and fit. Removed blower wheel. Disconnected wire plug from motor and slid motor out of blower wheel. Replaced everything in reverse order. Figuring out belt tensioning position was a trip, but finally got it. Vacuumed out all the lint. Amazingly it worked!

Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.
Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!
Very helpful site.

I was able to quickly make this repair with the help of some instructions that I found on this site on how to remove the front panel of my dryer. 4 screws on the front around the door (and removal of the door) and then it was simply a matter of rolling the top portion out to pop it out of some clips and then the front panel opened toward me and I was able to lift it off of the metal fingers that secure it on the bottom. Removing the old baffle was a matter of removing two screws with a nutdriver and installation of the new baffle was a breeze. All in all I was done start to finish in under 10 minutes.

Unplugged dryer and removed screws that hold door in place. removed screws that hold front panel. removed front panel. took drum belt off idler pulley. pulled drum out of dryer cabinet. unhooked wiring harness and removed motor. replaced motor and reversed steps to put back together. Thanks to partselect for getting me the parts so quickly. I ordered the motor on line on Friday and it was at my house on Saturday.

I looked on line and found a scematic from your web site to determine how to dismantel the dryer. Once I was inside I was able to determine that the drum roller was making the noise. I decided to replace the other moving part while I was inside just in case. . . Pretty easy job

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

There are several parts that will cause the dryer to squeak, drum roller, idler pully and the drum slides. To start, remove the door and the two opposite screws. Pull the front cover down and remove, no screws to remove, this is a snaped on piece. Next, remove the two screws holding the dryer top bracket and lift the top. Take drum support by removing the screws and then remove the belt from the motor and remove the drum. The hardest part was removing the C clips from the roller axle even with the snap ring pliers. Replace the drum rollers and reverse the process to re-assemble. Of course, the rollers weren't the problem even though they were worn out from 20 years of service. I ended up replacing the idler pully and and the idler pully support arm. If I had all of the parts prior to starting, the total time would have been about an hour. I did watch several YouTube videos before attempting the repair. That helped me understand the "how" and made it easy once I started the repair.

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

I followed the Part Select tutorial on Instant Repairman and retrieved the missing screws at the base of the dryer as described in the tutorial and after trying to reassemble the original baffle notice the baffle screw holes were stripped. I decided to fill the holes with a strong glue before reinserting the screw to temporarily keep the machine running until the new baffle arrived as it was just ordered the night before. When the new baffle arrived I decided to hold onto it as a spare if or when the original baffle broke off again.

take screws out of front of dryer, pull front off to expose drum and replace baffle

Followed instruction video

Removed four screws from the door hinges and front panel. Removed the front panel by pulling forward from the top and found two screws. The part does not come with screws which are #10 x 1 and 1/4" long hex head sheet metal screws. I believe that the screw size is critical as the part may break loose again if the screws width is too large or small for the predrilled holes in the baffle. One set of holes in the drum had slotted screw holes which would allow for installing the baffle with the screws partially installed in the baffle. I would recommend washers for that installation. Check all three baffles to ensure that all screws are tight.

By watching a video I disassembled the front and took the dryer tub out and replace the two rollers and it took about 60 minute.

Removed Dryer Door and front face of dryer, total of 4 screws, turn dryer drum to position broken baffle screws, remove screws, install new baffle, attach front face of dryer and reattach dryer door. Time 15-30 min. total. Real easy. Thank You PartSelect. Maytag told me my part was no longer available, but I fold it at PartSelect.com.