MLE20PDCYW0 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I followed the very informative video and wrote down step-by-step notes for myself. The repair went very smoothly. The only thing I didn't realize, was that the dryer has 4 rollers, not just 2 shown in the video. All are easy to access once you disassemble. I had to do it twice since I had to order 2 more rollers in order to replace them all. Also, the triangle plastic washers come with the roller, so you won't need to order them separately like I did. I also changed the idler pulley roller while I was in there since that has bearings too. Just as easy. I'm very happy with my quiet dryer! One last note: The new rollers are a bit louder than normal at first, but they quiet down very quickly as you use the dryer. It must be because they are brand new.

Followed online video very easy and dryer works like new one....

Remove screws, dryer sensor on screen. Put sensor back in place. Secure with screws. The way you take it off go in reverse.

Three 1/2 bolts tighten as required

There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.

Replaced the pump. Continued to get the F9E1 error. Removed and cleaned the drain pipe between the drum and the pump. Problem resolved.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.

replaced dryer lint screen with new.

Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.

Dropped new filter in.

I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).

Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and slit the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!

I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.

Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.

I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!

My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.

Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.

Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

Son-in law did the work he was finished in about 20 minutes the repair guy wanted $249.00 to take out and put in. PLUS part.