MGR7685AS0 Maytag Range - Instructions

Following your installation, the old part came out easily, with new part installing easily., oven heat is being regulated properly..with range pulled out for part replacement, got that area cleaned too

took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one

Just took the bottom cover off the bottom of the stove, pulled the old igniter and put the new one on.

This did not solve my problem.
What do I need to do next?

the hardest part was moving stove to trplace part

Remove vent trim from oven and set oven glass to the side. Next remove handle from vent trim (two screws). Next place handle on new vent trim. Place glass in place, (it is held in place by bottom of oven door and vent trim). next place side trim in place and place that side of the vent trim and loosely tighten screw holding trim into place at top of the glass. Next place the other trim into place under the vent trim and tighten the screws on both sides.

Putting the drawer glides on was easy. My range drawer did not have any glides on so my drawer would fall out. The drawer glides popped right on the drawer. The glides for the track were easy to screw into the body of the range. I had to bend the tracks up a little on each side with a pair of pliers. One glide would go onto the track and the other one would go on top of the track. After bending them a little I was able to push them onto the track.at the same time.

Simply remove two screws take old one off and line up and put new one on and replace the two screws. Couldn't have been easier.

Watched a video on you tube!
When I ordered the hinge it was recomended to replace both hinges. so I ordered two hinges not knowing that one of the hinges didn't have a spring. I ended up with an extra hinge.

Removed the bottom pan and heat shield plate, removed the drawer to get to the igniter disconnect the one wire from it and removed it and just repeated the same process backwards to put the new one in. All under 15 mins

Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.

I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.

I left the old broken hinge in place, & put the new hinge on the left side.

Removed grills. Removed bottom plate.
Removed flame shield.
Removed igniter, 2 hex head screws. Bottom one is a bit awkward. Disconnected wire. Installed new igniter. Careful not to drop stuff in the hole. Like a socket. I did

As the 2 screws in the front of the flame spreader didn't screw into anything , and made getting the flame spreader very difficult to remove, once I got the flame spreader out , I did cut off the screws so future install & removal would be easy. I had to hacksaw the screws off , as the screws are otherwise impossible to remove. The screws were damaging the oven metal sheet work during first removal ! Otherwise the new bake ignitor install would have been a very quick 20 minutes. Also I watched u-tube bake ignitor install & oven door remove videos, which were extremely helpful.