MGR6600FB0 Maytag Range - Instructions

Watched a video on you tube!
When I ordered the hinge it was recomended to replace both hinges. so I ordered two hinges not knowing that one of the hinges didn't have a spring. I ended up with an extra hinge.

As the 2 screws in the front of the flame spreader didn't screw into anything , and made getting the flame spreader very difficult to remove, once I got the flame spreader out , I did cut off the screws so future install & removal would be easy. I had to hacksaw the screws off , as the screws are otherwise impossible to remove. The screws were damaging the oven metal sheet work during first removal ! Otherwise the new bake ignitor install would have been a very quick 20 minutes. Also I watched u-tube bake ignitor install & oven door remove videos, which were extremely helpful.

REMOVE BOTTOM OVEN PAN. REMOVE GAS DEFLECTOR. REMOVE GAS TUBE. UNPLUG WIRE. REMOVE TOP AND BOTTOM SCREWS ON IGNITER. REPLACE IGNITER AND REATTACH IGNITER SCREWS. RE-INSERT IGNITER PLUG. REPLACE GAS TUBE AND DEFLECTOR. REPLACE OVEN BOTOOM PAN.

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

Removed the bottom pan and heat shield plate, removed the drawer to get to the igniter disconnect the one wire from it and removed it and just repeated the same process backwards to put the new one in. All under 15 mins

I took the door off the oven frame by releasing the hinge latches and lifting and pulling the door outward to remove it . Then I removed the glass outer cover by taking off the philips screws and then unscrewed the door hinges . I then reversed the order to replace it .

Wrestled with it for ten minutes and then watched a youtube video on how to set the locks on the oven door hinges in order for the door to be installed. The video was instrumental

the door came apart fairly easy getting it all back together was another story lining up glass and panels that have already been heated was fun but its back together and working fine.... It should be noted that I have a warranty for the stove but the hoops I had to jump thru and the time it would take for the tech to come it was easier to do it myself!!

I ordered the exact replacement igniter through the website. I removed the oven bottom plate and the flame spreader to gain access to the igniter/burner assembly. I removed the burner from the oven to access the mounting bolts for the igniter. I replaced the assembly into the oven and reconnected the igniter wire and it was set!

Very easy repair, simply remove old ignighter and install new one. Take pictures if you need help remembering where everything goes.

Followed the YouTube video and did it the correct way they showed. Note: side trim goes under the glass.

Just attached the glide to the drawer. It just popped in. No problem.
took about 5 minutes.

First, view videos to know what is an active door range problem.
Second, when you know the problem, see videos on you tube and be sure you will replace the right part
Third, I go to Part Select, see reference video for your problem if you need and buy the part on line, good price, very quick delivery.

Watched a video first. The repair was easy.

removed 3 screws holding the strip and replaced with new strip