MFC2062FEZ12 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

Remove crispers & bottom drawer. Removed glass piece. Unscrewed piece( small nuts not screw heads) There is also a nubbie at front. You must remove by sliding out & lifting back of part. Reuse screws to replace piece & drawer runner. It took 15 to 20 minutes. I am all thumbs. If I can do anyone can do!

we removed all the lower stuff,so we could get to the part.
unscrewed all pieces 3 screws
than removed it all in order..
than the hard part came ,when we had to figure out how to remove all the moving parts.from the back ..after a little wiggling we figured it all out and got a part...the new piece in and all back together...my husband and i did it in about 45 minutes,,,also gave us a chance to get those really hard places in the back to clean...thanks for all your help in helping me id the part..
thanks
linda landsdowne

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

A jar was dropped on the chef's pantry lid and cracked the lid. I unhinged one side of the lid from the pantry drawer by gently pushing outward on one of the hinge pins. The lid slid out easily. I then reversed the process using the new lid and it went in smoothly. Be sure to align the lid so it rests on the shoulder of the pantry drawer. Simple task, no tools, and less than 5 minutes effort. The replacement part was perfect.

repair was extremely easy.
Whether it was magnets weakened or seal getting stiff with age not allowing it to seal well, these gaskets improved it. Still not as strong a magnetic pull as it could be though. I will also say that the seals didn't pull tight at first. It seems the seals needed to flatten a bit before the magnets did their job.

just pop the old one out popped the new one in its replace.

Unscrewed all related parts and also took out drawers and glass shelf. Reused plastic slider which raps around right corner to the back wall of the unit. Make sure to remember how this plastic slider fits into the new end cap, it is a little tricky putting it back without cracking it. Suggest take a digital picture as to how it fits together before taking the slider out of the old end cap. Reinstall same way as you took it out. Good time to clean while everything is out of the bottom of the refrigerator.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Took out the drawer and upper rack out of freezer removed back wall from freezer took out fan motor housing and replaced motor and thermostat. Works like new now.

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.

Easily pulled out the gaskets off the refrigerator doors and replaced them with the new ones. The installation video was also a big help in the process.