MEX731CFS4 Uni Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

Be carful when unpacking, the grounding bearing is in loose with the bolts. I had to chase it. Follow the video instructions for the stacked washer/dryer combo and you will not have a problem. Recommend you have two people working to lift the drum out and to install the new bearing.

With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain hose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.

Took the top dryer cabinet apart to replace all the above parts plus the dryer belt. Because of its age decide to replace all the parts from the above list.
Three major problems: none of the video reviews showed this type of dryer. Some parts were practically impossible to get back together. Difficult getting the top square. The top of the cabinet picture did not indicate how the top was to be installed.
After 23 hours finally got it back together. Then it would not start. Discovered a wire had come loose. The dryer works fine now.

-Remove front panel - 2 screws
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
-Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)

1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem

The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.

after numerous holes put in my families clothes i looked on line and found "partselect.com". i ordered the front drum glide after seeing a similar story about the clothes being torn and getting caught and my family and i have our new dryer back!! yeah :<)

removed the top of dryer, pulled front panel back from drum and installed snubber(Front Drum guide).

We replaced the start switch and the knob. Wasn't difficult. Just had to remove the front panel, unscrew and remove the wires from the existing switch, and then put the new one on. The new control knob then popped right on top of the new start switch.

filter inalled

Remove top lid by pushing tab on either side with a putty knife. Disconnect the 2 wire carriages on right. Remove one
phillips head screw on each side that holds front panel to dryer body. Remove front panel by using flat head screwdriver to pry panel from body. Remove thermostat located on bottom right attached to front of motor on a plastic body by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnect wires and place on new part.

Had to loosen drum and move it forward to get at switch. Didn’t have to remove belt.

unplugged machine. pried up with large regular screwdiver on top washer lid. removed two phillips screws bottom of front panel, had to use rubber mallet to drive front panel down to remove as was rusty and old. removed old belt using screwdriver. put new belt under tub pulley and put belt on small pulleys. kept moving tub and springs by pushing on tub. Took several tries to get new belt to go on the large tub pulley but finally did it. I used the instructions you gave for replacing broken drive belt and it worked. replaced front panel and two phillips screws, put top back on and away it went.