MER5775QAW Maytag Range - Instructions

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

First I removed the screw behind the stove that hides the electrical wires. Pull off the two wires connecting the bake element with pliers. Unscrew the two screws holding down the floor pan which covers the baking element and pull out the floor pan. Here you will see the baking element, it is attached with a few screws. Remove the baking element and attach the new the same way.
We could not believe how easy this repair was to do. Not to mention all the money we saved on a repair man.
Thank you partselect.com, I'm glad I researched this on the net.

Replacing the handle requires removing the front glass, the top trim piece, and the brackets that hold the handle to the oven door.
First remove the three screws that hold the metal piece at the bottom of the glass and remove that metal piece and the glass. Then remove the four screws that hold the handle bracket to the main oven door. Next remove the three screw at the top of the top trim . Remove the whole trim piece with the handle and brackets. Remove the old handle from the brackets. Install the new handle onto the brackets (through the new top trim. Reassemble.

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP,
PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT
OFF)
2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE
DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A
TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS.
3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE
PERIMETER OF THE DOOR..
4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND
BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM
THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE
FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL.
5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER
AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO
ATTACHING BRACKETS.
6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM
THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW
HANDLE.
7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED
8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY
9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER.
( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR
GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}

I viewed the YTube Video that showed exactly how to remove the door and all the other parts for replacement. Excellent video shows and explains how to remove, replace, and re-attach the handle and the door.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

My grandson, age 15 did the replacement. Now, how easy is that!

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great

1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!

It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!