MER5751ACS Maytag Range - Instructions

I checked out Maytag.com - found the parts page on my computer - found the top oven element - ordered it from Part Select - it arrived just a few days later......

Before it arrived, I removed the damaged electric element from top of oven - easy.

Oven was ready for me to install new element - the video on your website was perfect - it helped me remove the old & install the new element from Part Select. It took me about an hour.

Thank you for your fast service, good instructions & the video!

I'm an 84 year old female. Did this by myself! Thank you!

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

First, turn off the breaker to the range. Then just remove the 2 screws that hold the element at the back of the oven. Pull the wire connectors apart or push them off with a regular screwdriver. Instructions that I read said to make sure the wires don't fall back through the holes, but in our case the insulation held them in place. Reconnect the wire connectors to the new element and reattach with the screws. Easy!

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Very easy to install with the advanced instructions you provided.

Unscrewed two Phillips screws holding the element in the back of the oven, pulled out the element and the leads, disconnected the wires, removed element from oven and reversed the process to install new one. One most important and critical maneuver - the element is connected to the hot wire on the left side and the switch shuts off the element by disconnecting electrical flow to the neutral side of the power so its not enough to just have the oven turned off - makes one heck of a spark when the wire touches the stove panel when you pull the wire through the hole (220 at 60 amps).

Removed old hinges, fabricated new mounting plates from 16ga steel plate. . . Cut new hinges to fit in available space. . . Drilled and tapped new mounting holes and adjustment tracks. . . Shortened existing springs to fit new configuration. Installed new hinges.

I followed peoples instructions here, and it was not very difficult.

Video showed element being unplugged from inside oven. My oven wires did not extend into oven cavity and they fell behind the back oven wall when I unplugged them. After trying to catch the two wires using needle nose pliers through 3/4" holes several times, I finally decided to take the complete back off the range. When I did this, I was able to see the wires with the female couplings. I then had my wife firmly hold the new element against the back of the oven from inside letting me connect the wires to the new element and replace the oven back. THIS WOULD HAVE QUALIFIED AS "EASY" AND A 15 TO 30 MINUTE JOB if this technique had been known from the outset.

Turned off power to oven. Removed screws from each side of element. Removed connectors to disconnect old element. Connected new element to connectors. Replaced screws, then turned on power to oven. Turned on oven to heat. Easy install.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Looked at parts blow-up, watched a You-Tube video,

Had to remove 4 small rusty screws and a sort of guard made of metal. With power off, I had no light to see way in the back of the oven. Suggest use of a head-lamp.
Also, it would have been very helpful if when the part arrived, it was noted somewhere that a smell and “smoking” from the part is very normal. This would have saved me a tremendous amount of stress and more days without the broiler trying to figure out if I did something wrong, if the part was bad or other. Sounds so simple, but BOY, that would have been SO helpful

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.