MER5552AAS Maytag Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws on the bottom heating element that hold the element in palace,one on the left side one on the right side, I then pulled the element out about 2 to 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then installed the new element. It took me about 20 mins. The cost of having some come out to fix this was about ten times of what I paid for this part. Thanks for the quick service.

First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed the oven door and oven racks. Turned off the power to the range/oven. Unscrewed the bottom element and place the new element in its place. Screwed element in and replaced the oven door and racks. Turned the power back on and turned the oven on. It works great.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

I actually had to hire someone to fix the problem. My stove happened to be one of those they describe on the internet where the wires were not long enough to pull out. Had I tried it would have become a major repair job. The repairman had to use needle nose pliers to grab ahold of the wires and get them out far enough. All went well though and he only charged $25.00.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Very easy repair. Turn the power off to the oven, take out two screws and unhook electrical connections. Replace with the new baking element and you are done. Takes only about 10 minutes and the oven works like new.

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

Plugs in easily, screws to secure