This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
$68.33
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This heating element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current, causing the wire to heat up. The heat produced is...
$82.76
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$17.11
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$10.20
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This high-limit thermostat with Terminal Extension Arm acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches 221 degrees Fahrenheit, this piece will shu...
$29.99
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This part provides the tension for a multi-ribbed belt and helps the belt to rotate the drum. This arm attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
$22.49
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Questions And Answers for MEDC465HW0
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Andrew
August 12, 2022
Why does my dry run a few minutes and turn off then turn back on by its self . No clogged lint found and door trigger works fine
For model number MEDC465HW0
Hello Andrew, thank you for your Thermal Fuse PS11741460 is shutting down the dryer because it's getting too hot or the motor is overworking. Another suggestion is Dryer Moisture Sensor Control Board PS11755390. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you.
Dryer makes clicking sound when dyer is off and door closed.
For model number MEDC465HW0
Hi Tom, thank you for reaching out. We would recommend checking the door switch first. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the dryer timer, part number PS11749833. It controls the electrical components and the duration of the dryer cycles. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
We replaced the thermal fuse and thermostat 2-3 months ago, now the thermal
fuse has blown again since the dryer will not start but has power.
What are we missing in our Maytag dryer
For model number MEDC465HW0
Hello Tina, thank you for contacting us. The thermal fuse blows when the dryer is overheated. The dryer overheating occurs mostly due to a blocked vent and dirty lint filter, part number PS11757278. We would recommend cleaning the lint filter and also inspecting vents for blockage. If the lint filter is damaged you will need to replace it. If the vents are clear and the lint filter is in good shape then a faulty thermostat is causing the problem. If you require assistance to place an order, please contact customer service. We hope that helps!
IS THERE AN INTERNAL DRYING RACK AVAILABLE FOR THIS DRYER? MY OLDER WHIRLPOOL HAD ONE YEARS AGO.
For model number MEDC465HW0
Hello Suzanne, thank you for your question. We have researched the model and found that the compatible drying rack is part number PS346849. If you require assistance to place an order, please contact customer service!
My dryer made a loud popping sound then would not heat up. I could still air dry though. Maybe thermal fuse?
For model number MEDC465HW0
Hi Deborah, thank you for your question. According to our research, you may need to test the thermostat with a multimeter for continuity at room temperature. If your reading indicates a defective thermostat, it must be replaced with part number PS11742185. If this is not causing the issue, you may need to check the heating element, part number PS334313, with a multimeter for continuity between the terminals. We hope this information helps!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element with an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken.
Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it)..
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
