MEDB800VB0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Repaired the 4 drum support rollers, 1 idler assembly, 9 tri rings, and 1 washer that came with the kit, however, the multi rib dryer belt that came with the kit did not fit my dryer. After several attempts to troubleshoot the problem, I realized that the belt was too small. I contacted PartSelect customer service and advised that the multi rib dryer belt that came with the kit was too small and I need to purchase a belt (P/N WP8547157) that fits my dryer. Adam was very courteous and helpful and very apologetic for the belt not being the right one. PartSelect refunded my purchase for the Parts Kit and I purchased the correct multi rib dryer belt. I received the new belt expeditiously and was able to finalize the repairs. Thank you PartSelect for your support and cooperation. Recommend: Advise customers that the belt in the kit may not fit the recommended dryer.

I ordered the dryer repair kit and to my surprise it arrived 4 days early. I followed the video instructions on the parts select website to replace 4 rollers, belt and belt pulley. A 1/4 in nut driver attached to my Dewalt drill made life ALOT easier!! My recommendation, when you remove the rollers, take a rag and really clean up the shaft they ride on. Then apply a lightweight spray oil to the shafts. When you install the new rollers they will spin free and easy. Having the dryer apart is also a great time to break out the dust buster of vacuum. Spin the fan motor up front by hand and use vacuum to remove lint or belt shaving from inside the cabinet. Add this step as good fire prevention measure.

Replaced

Remove bottom panel was able to remove the element from the bottom without taking off the whole front and removing the drum simply remove the panel remove the two wires connected to the coil unbolted the bracket that was held on by two small bolts then removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket together was able to remove the heating element and then put everything back together did not have to remove the drum the top or the back panel To complete the repair I am not an appliance repair technician just a homeowner but I was still able to repair this myself and it’s working just fine

Just like video except there were two screws in back to take control head off. Be prepared to have shop vacation ready. Clean dryer duct too. Have bandaids ready. Plastic triangles are not easy to take off, video makes it look easy.

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Found this website and reviewed videos and comments prior to purchasing the heater element and high limit thermostat and thermal fuse kit. We had recently put our Whirlpool duet washer and dryer on pedestals and after that, the dryer would come on and run, but would not heat up. Installation of the parts we ordered was simple...and we would be considered novice installers....really great website and easy to understand. Customer service was excellent as well. After installation of the parts, still no heat and heating element was registering only 120v. We checked everything again and found that the dryer plug was not all the way in the socket. Probably came loose with the move to the petestal.....plugged it in securely and it works great now. Should have checked that first, but because it was running we just didn't think of checking it. Good lesson learned and so glad we found this website. We will definately be using this site again and telling everyone we know about how great you guys are! And at least we won't have to worry about the dryer for a while and we now know we can fix a dryer that won't heat up!

Took the old filter out and inserted the new one- works great!!

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.

Viewed a video provided on this site for disassembly etc. It was not my exact same model, but the instructions were pretty much spot on. The main issues we had were just that it was bulky etc. and somewhat heavy. We could not really work on it in place, so we had to drag it to the kitchen area. I found the existing heater element to be open upon inspection. Changed it out with the one I purchased which was an exact replacement. The drum rollers, motor pulley, and belt did not really look bad, but since I ordered the repair kit, I went ahead and replaced all of them. I was glad I did because it is much quieter now. The only thing I did differently was I cut off the existing plastic triangle keepers for the rollers with my diagonal cutters instead of work them off with a small screwdriver like in the video, which saved some time and frustration. New ones were provided in the kit I purchased anyway. I also would recommend marking the front of the drum somehow so there is no confusion which way it goes when you put it back together. Works as good as new now, good for another 10 years (I hope).

Pulled out the old and slid in the new filter

Very bad design to keep door shut but very simple to fix. Just screw bad strike out and screw new one end. Whirlpool should have gave extra when you buy this type dryer.

I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful

Like another reviewer's repair story, I decided to take the door apart. It was too difficult, at least for me, to get the faulty catch out without damaging either the the door or my hands. This is why I give it an "easy" rather than "very easy" rating and put the total repair time at a half hour or better. I also decided I wanted a second person to help - not with getting the door apart or putting it back together, but because a second pair arms was very helpful in rehanging the door well. We removed the door (four screws), marking which side of the hinge needed to be flush with the actual dryer when rehanging. Then we took the door apart, which comprises another sixteen screws (four on each edge). We used an electric drill but I'm sure it could be done manually. We used needle nosed pliers to get the faulty latch out of that side of the door, then replaced it with the "back up" from the other side. Then we put the door back together and carefully rehung it. Done. We did decide that, in future, all kids (we have three boys) slamming the door would be severely beaten. Pushing the door until it's against the dryer, then PUSHING (as opposed to slamming) the latch ONTO the catch pin on the dryer is obviously what was intended. However, I've learned not to count on my boys being particularly conscientious, so I'd ordered four replacement latches to keep on hand. This machine was delivered in April 2009 and I replaced the latch in April 2011. Based on this and our laundering habits, I'm sure the others will be used long before the dryer calls it quits.