MED3000BW0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Disassemble dry. Put on new pulley wheel. Greased pulley wheel. Put dryer back together. Works great. Yours truly G.B.

Lubricated pulley wheel which temporary reduced noise. This verified what was making noise. Looked up the part on partselect.com and ordered it. Recieved idler pulley with bracket in just a few days.
Quickly removed back panel using nut driver with drill. Slipped belt off pulley, removed one screw with plyers to released spring and removed old assembly.
Inserted new assembly, connected spring, slipped belt back on roller.
Tested before replacing back panel.
All was very quiet. Replaced back panel.
All done

Remove top, remove two front panels, remove rear panel to access drive motor release tensioner. Remove drum to access to heating element enclosure. Replace and reinstall after vacuuming all accumulated lent.

Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed.
No more then 1 hour to do.

first of all there is no video for this model dryer (cabrio accu-dry) the main difference is that the console is removed by removing 3 screws across the back top of console then using putty knife release spring fastener on each side ,slide forward and lift. remove one screw at top of control board and remove from plastic mount,and unplug connecting wires.remove top of cabinet lifting up and forward. The rest of install is typical to other models. The back panel doesn't come off this model. You have to access everything from the front.

Turn off electric to unit.
Remove lint trap.
Remove lower cover below dryer door. 1 grey clip on either side. Bend upper portion of the clip down while pulling forward on panel.
Remove 4 1/4 inch bolts that hold blower duct to fan.
Push pulley upward while removing belt.
Use a small angled pick to remove pulley lock ring.
Install new washer and pulley. I added grease to pulley shaft.
Hope this helped. Good luck

Very easy repair... The video was really helpful too. I was able to find a different video that was closer to our model. (Front Loader HE) It probably took me a little longer than needed but I took the time to shop-vac everywhere I could, since it was all easy to get to. I opted for next day shipping so the shipping charges were more than the part. Tools I used were: Cordless drill-screw driver, 1/4in. socket, Phillips head bit and needle nose pliers for the control panel connections. Thank you again for making this so easy. Saved us a lot money by not calling an appliance repair tech.

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Pretty easy repair and I am not very handy. I believe they engineer these machines so you hire someone to do the job. They could place that part in an area where it is easier to get to, like a door on the side or something

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

pull the back off and replace the pulley.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Confirmed I had incoming 240V, checked continuity on element switch confirmed bad. Ordered replacement part. U have to remove drum to replace element

I saw a couple of videos to replace this but found a simpler way to replace the heating element on my dryer. DISCONNECT the POWER.
I removed the lower panel (6 screws). Dis-connected two wires; one going to the heat sensor in the back and the other to the switch at the front. Removed the two screws to the metal plate in front of the heating element. Slid the whole heating assembly out. Removed the screws holding the heating element in the housing. Removed the failed (open) heating element and installed the new one. Reversed the process for re-assembly.