MEC5536BAB Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

turned off power
removed ceran top from cabinet
removed element
installed new element
replaced top
powered up and was done

Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.

Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .

Bought new element and installed. Very simple. Used phillips
screw driver.

Unplug range and remove back panel (4 screws) unplug top burner plugs (2). Open oven door and remove 2 screws from under front of top. Pull top out and up to unhook from back. Remove top and lay cardboard on top of range. Flip over the ranges glass top unit and lay on cardboard. Remove screws from steel bottom and remove from top. Flip over steel bottom with burners attached. Remove attaching clips for burner and unscrew them from the burner then reinstall in new burner in the same place as old burner. Lay new burner on top of old burner and remove one wire at a time, transfering it to the matching plug on the new burner. When wiring is done remove old burner and attach 2 clips to steel backing plate. Vacuum off the glass top and reinstall the steel bottom to the glass top. Flip over the top, remove cardboard and slide top into back of range top and lower into place. Attach 2 screws under front. Reattach the tops plugs at the rear and reattach the back panel. Plug in range and slide back into place. Test units and all other burners. Done...

3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

Turned off power at circuit breaker.
There is a panel on the underside of the stove top with four hex head screws. Removed it to give access to the switches beneath the knobs. A socket set was useful here.
Identified the switch that was shorting. Detached the wires connected to that switch. They are all quick connects, but some are tight so pliers helped here. (It is a good idea to keep track of which wire is supposed to go where. Also there is a wiring diagram available somewhere on this site.)
Removed the switch by taking out the knob on the top and loosening the two Philips screws on either side of the switch stem. The switch came out easily after that.
Put in the new switch, reattached with the Philips screws, and replaced the wire connection. Replaced panel and turned power back on.
Turned on burners to ensure proper operation.

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

Just replaced the broken knob. That is easy. It is just that it is the 3rd broken knob I have replaced so far and 2nd time I have had to order parts. Plastic parts not sturdy enough.

glenda allen

First of all, I shut off the electricity to the stove.

I had to remove the two screws holding the stovetop in place. I then lifted it up and braced it to keep it from falling, removed the bad element, carefully marking the 4 wires that were connected to the element. I then disconnected the wires, and removed the two brackets holding the element in place. I replaced it with the new element, reconnected the wires, returned the stovetop to it's original place, put the two stovetop screws in, and turned on the electricity. Then I turned on the element, and it works just fine.

After extensive searches through various computer search engines and coming up with the same costly product and shipping charges across each web site, it wasn't until I came upon Partselect where they offered a "superior" product at much less compared to their competitors with reasonable shipping charges. The knob received from Partselect is actually a better made knob than what came with the unit and cosmetically, it had the exact same design for a perfect match. All I had to do was slip off the cracked knobs and slip on the new knobs without a single tool...very simple! Thank-you

Lift the cooktop out of it's inset in the counter top, flip it upside down and lay it on towels to protect the cooking surface. There is a raised rectangular panel that covers the switches located about the center front of the bottom. Remove this panel with a small nut driver to expose the switches. Now, locate the dead switch and place a strip of masking tape pointing to it and lapping around the edge so it can be seen when the unit is flipped back upright. Flip cook top back upright. Locate the correct switch by observing the masking tape. There are two small, short-threaded, phillips screws holding the switch in place. They must be accessed from the knob hole (remove rubber grommet)and at a slight angle. There is very little room to extract the screws...this is where I used the magnet to magnitize the tip of a small screw driver. Once the screw is free of the threaded hole, lift it with the magnetized screwdriver out through the knob hole. The switch will fall out easily when the two screws are removed. If you drop one of the screws inside the stove top, don't panic, I was able to shake the cook top and retrieve the screw. Now, flip the top back upside down. Using a pair of pliers remove each wire one at a time from the bad switch and connect it to the same terminal on the new switch...this way there can be no mistakes. Be sure the rubber insulator removed from the bad switch and placed on the new one. Position it where the screw holes show through, then place the switch in position. Turn the top back over in the upright position but position it where you can reach underneath it with your left hand. You will have to hold the switch and maybe move it around slightly to aline the screw holes when replacing the screws. Take a screw on the end of the magnetized screwdriver and carefully insert it into the knob hole and into the switch bracket. once you get one started, the other will be easy. I don't recall the screw replacement being any problem, just that you have to handle the screws carefully, so as to not drop one inside the cook top. Now, flip the top back over and replace the cover over the switches and replace the top in it's cabinet. The job is complete, Oh, and don't forget to flip the stove's cirduit breaker BEFORE even touching the stove!