MDBH965AWS40 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.

The part broke off a while ago, and I did not want to call a repair person. The machine still ran, so I ran it with the part missing - the glasses were not very clean, but the repair call was expensive...

I figured that I had a snowballs chance of finding the part number on a molded plastic piece with no numbers printed on it. Boy was I wrong. I was able to choose the part off of a schematic of my machine right on the website and it linked me to the right part order form, so I did not even have to go back and find it on a list.

When the part came, all I had to do was unclip the old mount- with my fingers- no tools, and snap in the new part.

A for maytag for making it easy to fix
A+ for PartSelect for making it so darn easy

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Replaced the door gasket, inner foam strip and the bottom seals on the door. Unfortunately I broke the plastic door latch handle in the process and had to purchase a complete latch assembly too.

remove old seal, put in new - my 10 yr old could do it. Note - there is a white mark on the back of the seal indicating the middle so you can line it up when installing the new seal - makes it easier.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

Basically took out of box and put in dishwasher.

Door gasket fit in like a champ! No special tools required - just scissors to trim off the excess ends. Unfortunately this didn't correct the leak. The leak was caused by a Home Inspector who ran the dishwasher without soap. The soap has a defoamer in it. If you run the dishwasher without soap the water mixes with the surfactant in the jet dry and causes foam which results in a door leak. The foam also causes the pump to cavitate which is not healthy for the pump.

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.

After noticing that the nozzles in the washer arms seemed clogged, I ordered replacements from PartSelect.com. Installing them was a breeze. The upper arm had a torx screw in it and the bottom just required a nut driver to get off. I replaced the arms and ran some DishWasher Magic through it and now my dishes are clean again!

Unfortunately, my experience was unlike that of the other people who posted. While everything did go back together it was very difficult to get it all to press down tightly enough to tighten each set of screws. The project took about 2.5 hrs and I still don't think it is exactly right. I'm still going to have a professional out to finish the job. Also, the tool needed to complete the job was nothing fancy, but also not in everyone's home tool kit.

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.

I removed the old door seal -- it just slips right out. Then I inserted the new door seal. One thing I noticed on the old door seal and also in your photograph is that the last inch or two of the seal on both ends is kind of sliced in half perhaps to make it fit better in the corner. But we decided not to cut it yet and have been using it uncut as it arrived in the package. It is working great! No leaking! So we're not going to cut it. Thank you for offering this great service. It saved us a lot of money since we didn't call a repairman.