MDB4100AWX Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

First I unplugged the dishwasher since I was working on the electrical. I just unscrewed all the screws on the inside of the door till I could get down to the door latch. I found that a tiny piece of plastic had broken off of the white bracket that holds the electrical switches (these turn it on when the door latches and off when the door opens). I had to break several tiny plastic prongs off the old bracket in order to pull the switches out of it (gently so the wires wouldn't pull out of the switches) and the door handle latch fell out easily. Then it was easy to snap the switches back into the new bracket, and slip the handle latch back in, and screw everything back down. It worked! I've never worked on a dishwasher before but looking at the photos of all the various parts (even the ones I didn't need to use) really helped me to see how the things go together and to narrow it down to which part I would need. The dishwasher was totally un-usable and all I spent to make it run again was less than $5. Thanks to Partselect!

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

1- turn power off. 2- remove 7 screws to take door apart 3- remove 2 screws to take dispenser out. 4- i unhooked electic plug from it. 5- replace grommet and all back together. not bad to be 72 years old.

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

Our dishwasher got to the point where it would not complete a wash cycle. I found that by jiggling the door latch, the dishwasher would whir back to life. For awhile, if I put a clothespin on the door latch, somehow enough pressure would be put on the switch to keep the dishwasher going. Finally, the dishwasher refused to cooperate...so I ordered a replacement switch.

The repair was easy. I only had to remove the interior door panel, unscrew the metal bar at the top of the door and underneath the door panel, then remove the black plastic shield. After that, it was just a matter of wiggling the old switch out and wiggling the new switch.

CAUTION: Be very sure that the power to the dishwasher is turned off. I got a scare because I thought the circuit breaker was off, but I had flipped the wrong one and suddenly, with my fingers very close to the bare connectors, the dishwasher came back to life briefly. I ran downstairs and found the correct circuit breaker and all was fine after that.

Removed old door gasket and water deflectors and replaced with new. Got the gasket in backwards at first. Removed and rotated 180 degrees and it went in properly. (Used tech video provided by parts select to help me.)

Though the old gasket was definitely bad, water still leaked after replacement.

Key issue ...... over time, contamination has accumulated in the water shutoff lever assembly and also on the shutoff microswitch underneath the internal water float, making both sticky and non-responsive to water level. Water had been overfilling. (probably defaulting to a maximum number of seconds to fill). ALSO - original installation was not totally level, with back of tub higher than the front.

Leveled tub. Removed mocroswitch and lever and cleaned both of sticky grease.

No more leakage.. basic problem was actually overfilling, allowing water to surge into the lower internal door vent upon pump startup.

Ron
Mount Airy, MD

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The repair was very involved, but from previous experience cleaning the dishwasher, it was worth not having to buy a new one. I removed all of the lower parts down to the motor shaft. That process is tricky, but if you do it methodically, and slowly, it is not too bad. The real problem wash the scum that was left behind by the soap used in the dishwasher. After removing all the parts, I ordered the parts I could not clean, and cleaned the parts I could. I figured out that the door was leaking because of the soap scum buildup on all the parts, causing the water level to raise faster than it could be pumped out. After I received the new parts, I simply put everything back together and it works better than ever now. I used the parts layout on your website to help in aiding me to put everything back correctly. I am very appreciative that I can get parts easily through your website, and not have to hire a "service technician" to come out and do the same thing, for the price of a new washer. Thanks!

I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Located circuit breaker for dishwasher and turned off breaker to secure power going to unit. Removed water spray bar arm inside dishwasher basin by unscrewing center nut and unclipping tabs against arm. Removed sheet metal access panels on bottom front of unit. Removed two individual plug in wires to temperature thermister. Removed 4 conductor plug wiring going to motor. Removed ground wire going to motor frame. Located plastic handle which cam locks motor / pump assembly into place. Pulled handle down gently to unlock from detent and turned clockwise to release pressure on assembly. Removed motor / pump assembly from dishwasher enclosure. Installed all new parts purchased as listed above utilizing parts breakdown aquired from PartSelect.com. Reinstalled motor / pump assembly in reverse order as listed above. Tested and ran unit with no problems. Thank You PartSelect.com, Robert.