MAVT834AWQ Maytag Washer - Instructions

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

Turn off water and unplug washer. Use putty knife to release the catches in order to lift the top. Remove the screw that holds the entire assembly to the back of the washer. Pull the valve assembly forward in order to make the remaining repairs easier. Next remove the screw that allows you to separate the front water difuser from the valve bracket. The last is a phillips screw that holds the valve/solenoid to the mounting bracket. Reverse these steps to install the new part.

I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

Removed five screws from rear of control panel.
Removed two control board mounting screws.
Replaced control board.
Replaced all screws.
Washer worked except for temp control.
Opened front door and removed four screws.
Removed front panel.
Removed two lock tab screws and locking tabs.
Lifted up top of washer.
Unplugged cable from thermistor.
Closed washer top and reinstalled locks and front panel.
Temperature control switch now controls temperature without using the thermistor+.

I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool. Put belt back on. . . Done. . No more beating itself to death.

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..

There are two clips that hold the top of the washer down. Releasing these clips allows you to lift the top; it is hinged at the back. Then remove two screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel. The tub to pump hose is easily accessible. It is held in place by a hose clamp at each end. Use pliers to squeeze the clamps and remove the hose. Replace with new hose. I re-used the original clamps.

Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

I opened the front of the machine. The clips had rusted. One broke and the others were very difficult to work with. I pried the panel open with a large screwdriver. I took the back panel off to access the water pump. I removed the back panel on the electricals to access the timer. To replace the timer I pried off the decorative cover. To get the knob off you have to squeeze in on the timer split shaft while pulling out on the know. This was the second hardest part. (The front panel access was the most difficult). After that the timer clip is easy to loosen and it slides a littel then pops out. Electrical connection was obvious. The motor sping was the next most difficlt part. The spring fits on the rear part of the motor which is most easily accessed through the rear panel used for replacing the water pump. The water pump has three screws holding it and two hose clamps that come off easily with a pair of pliers. Before removing the water pump, I had to tip up the machine and take the belt off. This was also pretty easy. Put it back together and works great again on all cycles.

Removed washer top by depressing spring loaded clamps with a screw driver. Tricky part was determining location of clamps so that I knew where to insert screw driver; (I used diagrams of my model found on the Internet). With top lifted up, I located water control valve and removed brackets and plastic fixture surrounding it. Was careful to disconnect electronic wiring into valve. Then removed hoses and replaced with new part. Most of the time spent was diagnosing problem, determining plan for getting access to part, and reassembling without losing parts down in tub area. Saved an estimated $150-250 by doing it myself.

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.